Freeze battery-draining apps without rooting your Android phone


Back in the early days of Android, it was common to root your phone so you could “hibernate” or “freeze” battery-killing apps. They wouldn’t be able to wake up the device’s CPU or consume any system resources. These days, Android has built-in features to stop battery-leeching apps, but you can still freeze apps, and you don’t even need root access to do it anymore.

The Ingredients

Two open-source tools, and how they work together

Usually, these apps require system-level privileges to work, which you can easily grant if you have rooted the device. Even without root access, you can use a service like Shizuku to give apps those elevated privileges.

Shizuku uses the Android Debug Bridge (or ADB), meant for developers. It’s a command-line interface that lets developers access settings and execute commands that aren’t possible in the normal, unrooted Android environment. Now you’re supposed to connect your phone to a PC (either through Wi-Fi or a USB cable) in order to access this ADB interface.

Wireless debugging connected with wireless ADB on the OnePlus 13R. Credit: Patrick Campanale / How-To Geek

Shizuku uses the wireless ADB mode to create that privileged environment and runs it in the background without a PC. As long as it’s running in the background, apps connected to Shizuku get advanced access to the Android system. That’s what we’ll be doing.

There are three “hibernation” apps that work with Shizuku—Ice Box, FreezeYou!, and Hail. Only Hail and FreezeYou! are free and open-source. Hail is more general-purpose, while FreezeYou! is meant for scheduling and automating app hibernation.


A 'Do Not Disturb' sign hanging on a door handle with the Android logo in the background.


“Do Not Disturb” on Android: What It Is and How It Works

Stop notification overload without missing what matters.

Setting up Hail using Shizuku

Installing and configuring Shizuku and Hail

Let’s start by installing Hail from F-Droid. You can also grab the installer from its official GitHub repo and manually install Hail using the APK file. I recommend installing via F-Droid because it’ll automatically update the app for you.

When it’s installed, we’ll get a Shizuku service up and running so we can grant the necessary permissions to Hail. You can install Shizuku directly from the Google Play Store, or download the installer from the Shizuku GitHub. Open Shizuku when it’s installed.

Enable Developer Options before proceeding, if you don’t already have them enabled. Go to System > About and tap Build Number 7 times until you see the “You are now a developer” message.

Tap “Pairing” on the Shizuku homepage. A notification from Shizuku will pop up to assist with the pairing process. Tap “Developer Options” and then scroll down to “Wireless Debugging.” Enable wireless debugging and then tap “Wireless Debugging” (the text, not the toggle) to expand the menu.

Under “Wireless Debugging”, tap “Pair device with pairing code” to generate a 6-digit code. Note the 6-digit code and swipe down from the notification shade. You’ll see a notification from Shizuku, requesting the code. Enter the 6-digit code here and wait for the “pairing successful” message.

This pairing was a one-time setup. Now back at the Shizuku home, tap “Start” to start the Shizuku service (a window will appear and disappear). You should see a “Shizuku is running” message at the top.

Shizuku will turn off when the phone reboots, and you’ll have to manually start it again. There’s no need to pair Shizuku all over again. You only have to press the “Start” button.

Tap “Authorize applications” and enable Hail.

Now open Hail and go to the “Settings” tab. Tap “Working mode” and select “Shizuku – Suspend.” This mode effectively “freezes” the app and keeps it from waking up the device or consuming any system resources. If an app sends annoying notifications or if you want to stop an app’s background activity, this is the mode you want. You can still tap the app icon and use it whenever you need.

You can also choose “Disable,” but this mode turns the app off entirely, and you can’t even use it until it’s re-enabled. The “Force Stop” mode just momentarily turns the app off, but it can turn back on again.

Freezing apps using Hail

Hail can freeze apps with a single tap

Now that Hail is set up, we can hibernate some apps using it. Tap the “Apps” tab on Hail to see a list of all your installed apps. Select the apps you want to freeze. Now go back to the “Home” tab, and you’ll see your selected apps have appeared there.

Tap the snowflake button to instantly freeze the selected apps. Frozen apps will appear grey.

If you don’t want to manually freeze apps while you’re using the phone, you can set Hail to auto-freeze apps when you lock the screen. Open Hail settings and enable “After screen locked” under Auto freeze. You can also skip freezing while the phone is charging. And you can even add action shortcuts to the home screen for quickly freezing and unfreezing apps.

Obsidian Google Pixel 9 on a white background

9/10

Battery

4700 mAh

Ports

USB-C

Operating System

Android 14 (at launch)

Front camera

10.5 MP Dual PD, ƒ/2.2 aperture, 95° field of view



Stop annoying apps with one tap

You can now stop apps from draining the battery, secretly running in the background, or sending annoying notifications with just one tap.



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Recent Reviews


I built my first PC in my early teens, and I just never really stopped. A passion for building desktops turned into a career, and two decades later, I still love everything about the process of building a PC, from picking the parts to actually assembling them and benchmarking the final rig.

With all that said, I’m about to buy a prebuilt PC, and it’s not just because of the prices, although they do play a part.

For most people, a prebuilt gets the important stuff right

If you shop smart, it can be a safe way to get a desktop

No, I haven’t somehow abandoned everything I’ve stood by for the last two decades. I still love PC building, and yes, I do normally try to convince my less building-inclined friends to build their own PC rather than buy a dodgy prebuilt. (It usually doesn’t work.)

I’m not exactly throwing in the towel. I’m just opening up my mind to possibilities. And the fact is that the vast majority of people who use desktop PCs don’t need the bleeding-edge performance or top-notch customization that comes with building your own computer. For most people, a prebuilt PC is just fine.

That’s exactly why I’m buying a prebuilt instead of building one myself: the computer is for my mom.



















Quiz
8 Questions · Test Your Knowledge

DIY PC building
Trivia Challenge

From socket types to cable chaos — test your knowledge of building computers from scratch.

HistoryHardwareTroubleshootingQuirksTips

What year did Intel release the first consumer processor that popularized the DIY desktop PC market — the Intel 8086?

Correct! The Intel 8086 launched in 1978 and gave birth to the x86 architecture still used in PCs today. It was a 16-bit processor running at 5–10 MHz — a far cry from today’s multi-GHz giants. This chip laid the foundation for decades of DIY computing.

Not quite — the Intel 8086 debuted in 1978. It introduced the x86 instruction set that still underpins virtually every desktop and laptop processor sold today. IBM later used the cheaper 8088 variant for its first PC in 1981, which is sometimes confused as the origin point.

When building a PC, what does ‘POST’ stand for in the context of the boot process?

Correct! POST stands for Power-On Self-Test, a diagnostic routine your motherboard runs every time you boot up. It checks that critical components like RAM, CPU, and GPU are present and functional. If POST fails, you’ll often get beep codes or LED indicators to help diagnose the problem.

The correct answer is Power-On Self-Test. Every time you press the power button, your motherboard runs POST to verify that essential hardware is connected and working. Failed POST is one of the first hurdles new PC builders encounter, often caused by unseated RAM or a forgotten power connector.

Why do experienced PC builders recommend touching a metal part of the case before handling components?

Correct! Static electricity built up on your body can silently destroy sensitive PC components in an instant — a phenomenon called electrostatic discharge (ESD). Touching bare metal grounds you and neutralizes that charge before it can zap your CPU or RAM. Anti-static wrist straps work even better for extended build sessions.

The answer is to discharge static electricity. Your body can carry thousands of volts of static charge without you feeling a thing, but that invisible zap can permanently damage a CPU or RAM stick. It’s one of the oldest and most important safety habits in PC building — cheap insurance for expensive parts.

A newly built PC powers on, fans spin, but there’s no display output. What is the MOST common first thing to check?

Correct! This is arguably the most common rookie mistake in PC building — plugging the monitor into the motherboard’s video output when a dedicated GPU is installed. The motherboard’s HDMI or DisplayPort is disabled by default when a GPU is present. Always connect your display directly to the graphics card.

The most common culprit is having the monitor plugged into the motherboard’s video port instead of the dedicated GPU. When a graphics card is installed, most systems disable the motherboard’s integrated video outputs automatically. It’s such a frequent mistake that it has become a running joke in PC building communities.

What is the purpose of thermal paste when installing a CPU cooler?

Correct! Even finely machined metal surfaces have tiny imperfections and air gaps at the microscopic level. Thermal paste — also called thermal interface material (TIM) — fills those gaps to ensure maximum heat conduction from the CPU to the cooler. Without it, air pockets act as insulation and temperatures can skyrocket dangerously.

Thermal paste fills microscopic gaps between the CPU lid and the cooler’s base plate. Metal surfaces may look flat and smooth, but at a microscopic scale they’re riddled with tiny ridges and valleys that trap air — and air is a terrible heat conductor. A thin, even layer of thermal paste eliminates those gaps and keeps temperatures in check.

The ATX motherboard form factor, which became the standard for DIY desktop PCs, was introduced by which company and in what year?

Correct! Intel introduced the ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) standard in 1995, replacing the older AT form factor. ATX standardized component placement, power supply connectors, and airflow direction — making DIY builds far more practical and interchangeable. Nearly 30 years later, ATX and its derivatives like Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX still dominate the market.

ATX was introduced by Intel in 1995. It was a major leap forward from the previous AT standard, defining a common layout for motherboards, cases, and power supplies that made mixing and matching components from different vendors straightforward. That standardization is a huge reason DIY PC building became so accessible.

When installing RAM into a motherboard with four slots, where should you install two sticks to enable dual-channel mode on most boards?

Correct! Dual-channel mode requires RAM to be installed in matched pairs on alternating slots — typically A2 and B2, or slots 2 and 4. This allows the memory controller to access both sticks simultaneously, effectively doubling memory bandwidth. Your motherboard manual will show the exact recommended slots, usually color-coded for convenience.

To enable dual-channel mode, RAM should go in alternating slots — such as slots 2 and 4, often color-coded on the motherboard. Placing both sticks in adjacent slots (like 1 and 2) forces single-channel operation, which can noticeably reduce performance in memory-intensive tasks. Always check your motherboard manual for the exact recommended configuration.

What is ‘coil whine’ in the context of a newly built gaming PC?

Correct! Coil whine is a high-pitched, sometimes whirring or buzzing noise caused by tiny electromagnetic coils (inductors) on a GPU or PSU vibrating at audible frequencies under heavy electrical load. It’s technically a defect in manufacturing tolerances but is extremely common and not usually harmful to the component. Ironically, it’s often loudest in high-end GPUs under uncapped framerates.

Coil whine is that annoying high-pitched squeal coming from inductors on your GPU or power supply vibrating under electrical load. It tends to be loudest when framerates are uncapped or during heavy computational tasks. While alarming to new builders, it’s usually harmless — though some manufacturers will replace components with severe coil whine under warranty.

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My mom does actually play quite a few games every single day, so I initially started off by putting parts together in order to get something good, cost-effective, reliable, and equipped with a discrete GPU. But as I ran into more and more roadblocks, I was once again reminded why my friends often can’t be bothered with building their own PCs.

These days, the evergreen belief that custom PCs are somehow better and more worth it than prebuilts is growing slightly outdated. Now, more than ever, many users can get by with a simple plug-and-play PC instead of going on weeks-long deep dives.

ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14

Operating System

Windows 11 Home

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 8000 Series

The ROG Zephyrus G14 has been redesigned with an all-new premium aluminum chassis for increased durability and elegance. At 0.63 inches thin and weighing in at just 3.31lbs, this gaming powerhouse combines portability with cutting-edge technology.


Building PCs is great fun, but it’s not for everyone

I’ve stopped trying to convince my friends otherwise

A white full-tower desktop gaming PC with a mATX case, large air cooler, and RX 6800. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Building your own PC is one of the most satisfying things you can do if you’re a desktop user, but that’s only true if you actually enjoy the whole process. Over the years, I’ve realized that many people just don’t enjoy it, and that’s alright. It can be overwhelming, and it becomes more of a hobbyist thing than a go-to with each passing year.

A lot of people don’t want to spend their evenings watching reviews, comparing chipsets, going through benchmarks, wondering whether there’s enough PSU headroom or whether a motherboard will need a BIOS update, and so on. Those same people might still want to own a desktop PC, and good prebuilts exist to save us all the trouble.

For someone like my mom, who is definitely a casual user, building a PC would make zero sense. I’d put in a lot of effort—I always go way overkill with every single build—and it’d have been wasted. And yes, I’d have fun, but for my mom, the end user, the end result would’ve been one and the same.

For a regular desktop user, a good prebuilt often gets the important things right without demanding that kind of effort. It comes assembled, tested, and ready to go, and it usually bundles the parts that matter most to everyday use: a modern CPU, enough RAM, a decent SSD, built-in connectivity, and some kind of warranty if things go wrong.

Besides, most desktop users aren’t like enthusiasts; they don’t need to optimize every tiny little thing. Looking at various Steam Hardware Surveys tells us that people go for the midrange time and time again, and I find it hard to believe that all those RTX 4060 owners overclock their PCs and spend hundreds of dollars on cooling.

In 2026, the market makes this whole argument a lot easier

Let’s not ignore the elephant in the room

Crucial DDR5 RAM and an M.2 NVMe in their original packaging. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

At a time when we’ve all done our panic buying and given up on the PC market, buying a prebuilt makes even more sense. Here’s how I know: I tried to build a PC first.

As that’s my default, obviously, I started by assembling a list of components my mom could use and going on a price-matching crusade. Some parts are reasonably affordable, such as the CPU, the motherboard, or the cooler, but the overpriced components make up for whatever you might manage to save on the other stuff. Getting RAM, an SSD, and a discrete GPU brand new right now is a challenge, and these pricing obstacles remove one of the best things about custom builds: saving money.

Typically, when you build your own PC, you save on the cost of assembly that’s baked into a prebuilt. You can also score better deals on the components themselves. But when there are very few deals to be had, and you don’t want to buy used, well, you’re kind of left with no upgrades right now. The best way to upgrade your PC in this climate is to spend zero dollars and wait it out.

Prebuilts aren’t perfect, but they can be good enough

Don’t let elitist communities tell you otherwise

A wall-mounted OLED TV connected to a desktop PC being used to watch "Fargo." Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Prebuilts are a good solution right now. Some manufacturers still haven’t carried the increased cost of parts over to the consumer, or at least not entirely, and if you score a good deal, you’ll actually save both time and money. You’ll miss out on the fun, but for many people, it’s more of a chore than entertainment.

With that said, prebuilts aren’t perfect. When you shop, make sure that you keep an eye out for some of the most common prebuilt PC traps.


There are alternatives

If you don’t want to buy a prebuilt PC but still want to save time and/or money and not build your own, you can always consider buying a used PC or a mini PC. I’ve toyed with the idea of a mini PC for my mom, and it’d be cheaper, but I want her to have a discrete GPU, so we’re going with a full-sized prebuilt.

However, if you don’t need a discrete graphics card, buying a mini PC can be a good, affordable way to get yourself a desktop replacement with minimal hassle. (Hint: mini PCs also make good sidekicks for actual desktops.)



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