Never use a single name for your Wi-Fi network


In most cases, having a single SSID (Service Set Identifier) that combines all available Wi-Fi bands on your router is the way to go. But sometimes, it’s better to create multiple SSIDs for one reason or another. I’ve used two SSIDs on my network for years, and I’m not going back. Here’s why you should consider doing the same.

Connect specific devices to specific Wi-Fi bands

Keep the 5GHz and 6GHz bands uncongested for devices that need that extra bandwidth

The primary reason I separated the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands into two SSIDs was that I had issues while streaming games from my desktop to my handheld PCs. Constant stuttering, packet loss that manifested as annoying stream freezes, and latency spikes had been par for the course. At first, I thought it was my Steam Deck LCD, since its Wi-Fi chip is known to cause all kinds of Wi-Fi issues, but after upgrading to an ASUS ROG Ally and having the same problems, I realized the issue was elsewhere.

After doing some research, I decided to create two SSIDs: one for 2.4GHz and one for 5GHz. And what do you know, issues with local game streaming all but disappeared. Sure, I still have to deal with the occasional stutter or lag spike, but 99% of the time, the stream is as fluid and responsive as playing the game directly on my desktop. I was playing GTA IV at the time and couldn’t believe how much of an improvement separating my Wi-Fi bands into different SSIDs made.

Years and multiple routers later, I still run dedicated 2.4GHz and 5GHz SSIDs. I keep phones, tablets, eReaders, and smart devices on the slower 2.4GHz network while reserving the faster 5GHz band for my handheld PCs, which need the extra bandwidth not only for game streaming but also for downloading games since I benchmark games on PC handhelds for TechPowerUp and require stable, fast downloads.

As for my partner’s PC, she’s fine keeping it on 2.4GHz most of the time, only switching to 5GHz when downloading large files, which happens once in a blue moon. I do the same with my Mac mini. It’s usually connected to the 2.4GHz SSID, which is more than enough since I only use it for work. But when I’m downloading system updates or large files, I temporarily switch it to 5GHz.



















Quiz
8 Questions · Test Your Knowledge

Weird WiFi and networking quirks
Trivia challenge

From bizarre range tricks to hidden protocol secrets — how well do you really know your network?

WiFiProtocolsHardwareHistoryFun Facts

In 2012, a small village in Wales was mysteriously losing its broadband every morning at the same time. What was the cause?

Correct! An elderly villager’s old television set was emitting a powerful electrical signal every morning when he turned it on, wiping out broadband for the entire village. Engineers used a spectrum analyzer to track down the source after years of complaints. It’s a perfect example of how everyday electronics can wreak havoc on networking signals.

Not quite! The culprit was an old television set that an elderly resident switched on every morning, sending out a burst of electrical interference that killed broadband for the whole village. Engineers used specialist equipment to track it down after years of frustrating outages.

Why does placing your WiFi router near a fish tank often degrade wireless signal quality?

Correct! Water is a surprisingly effective absorber of 2.4GHz radio waves, which is the same frequency used by most WiFi routers. This is actually the same principle microwave ovens use to heat food — the frequency is tuned to excite water molecules. A large fish tank can create a significant dead zone behind it for WiFi signals.

Not quite! The answer is water absorption. Water molecules absorb 2.4GHz radio waves very efficiently — it’s the same reason microwave ovens cook food at that frequency. A large fish tank can significantly dampen your WiFi signal, creating dead zones on the other side of it.

The term ‘WiFi’ is often believed to stand for ‘Wireless Fidelity’, but what is the actual origin of the name?

Correct! ‘WiFi’ was coined by a branding consultancy called Interbrand in 1999, hired by the Wireless Ethernet Compatibility Alliance. It was designed purely as a marketable, memorable name — not an acronym. The ‘Wireless Fidelity’ backronym was actually invented afterward to give the name a plausible meaning, and even the Wi-Fi Alliance has admitted the term has no real meaning.

Not quite! WiFi was invented by a branding company called Interbrand as a catchy, memorable marketing term with no underlying meaning. The popular explanation that it stands for ‘Wireless Fidelity’ was actually created after the fact as a retronym, and even the Wi-Fi Alliance has acknowledged the name doesn’t technically stand for anything.

What is the maximum theoretical speed of the original 802.11 WiFi standard released in 1997?

Correct! The original 802.11 standard from 1997 topped out at just 2 Mbps — barely enough to stream a low-quality video today. It feels almost laughably slow compared to modern WiFi 6E speeds that can exceed 9 Gbps in ideal conditions. The jump in wireless speeds over just 25 years is one of the most dramatic improvements in consumer technology history.

Not quite! The original 802.11 standard could only manage 2 Mbps — painfully slow by today’s standards. The 11 Mbps speed came with 802.11b in 1999, which was a big deal at the time. Modern WiFi standards have improved speeds by over 4,000 times compared to that humble beginning.

Which common household appliance is most notorious for interfering with 2.4GHz WiFi networks?

Correct! Microwave ovens operate at approximately 2.45GHz, sitting almost exactly on top of the 2.4GHz WiFi band. When running, a microwave leaks enough radio frequency energy to noticeably disrupt nearby WiFi connections. This is one of the main reasons the 5GHz WiFi band became popular — it completely avoids this kitchen interference problem.

Not quite! Microwave ovens are the biggest culprit. They operate at around 2.45GHz, almost identical to the 2.4GHz WiFi frequency band. Even a well-shielded microwave leaks enough signal to cause noticeable interference. Switching to the 5GHz band on your router completely sidesteps this issue.

What unusual material was found to dramatically boost WiFi signal strength in experiments by researchers at Dartmouth College?

Correct! Researchers at Dartmouth College discovered that custom-shaped 3D-printed plastic reflectors, coated in a thin layer of metal, could dramatically focus and redirect WiFi signals throughout a space. The reflectors could boost signal strength in desired areas by up to 55% while simultaneously reducing signal in areas where security or privacy was needed. It’s a remarkably cheap solution using off-the-shelf printing technology.

Not quite! Dartmouth College researchers found that 3D-printed plastic reflectors with a metallic coating could focus WiFi signals like a lens, improving signal strength by up to 55% in targeted areas. The approach also has a useful privacy angle — you can intentionally block signal from going outside your walls without expensive equipment.

What does the ‘ping’ command measure, and where does the name actually come from?

Correct! Ping measures the round-trip time for a data packet to travel to a host and back, measured in milliseconds. The name is inspired by sonar technology used in submarines — when sonar emits a pulse and ‘hears’ it bounce back, operators call that a ping. The networking tool was written by Mike Muuss in 1983, and he explicitly confirmed the sonar analogy was intentional.

Not quite! Ping measures round-trip latency — how long it takes for a packet to go to a destination and come back. The name comes from submarine sonar, where a sound pulse sent out and detected returning is called a ‘ping.’ Creator Mike Muuss confirmed this analogy in 1983 when he wrote the tool, though the ‘Packet InterNet Groper’ backronym was invented later.

What phenomenon causes WiFi speeds to mysteriously slow down when many neighbors are using their networks simultaneously, even if you’re not sharing bandwidth with them?

Correct! WiFi operates on shared radio frequency channels, and nearby routers broadcasting on the same channel compete for airtime even between separate networks. This is called co-channel interference, and it causes routers to ‘take turns’ transmitting more often, reducing effective throughput. Using a WiFi analyzer app to find the least congested channel — or switching to the less crowded 5GHz or 6GHz bands — can significantly improve speeds in dense neighborhoods.

Not quite! The culprit is channel congestion. WiFi channels are shared radio spectrum, and when many nearby networks use the same channel, they all have to take turns broadcasting — slowing everyone down even though no one is stealing your bandwidth. A WiFi analyzer can help you find a quieter channel, and moving to 5GHz or 6GHz usually helps escape the congestion.

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Older devices might have issues connecting to WPA2/WPA3 networks

And VPN software may not play nice with multi-band Wi-Fi networks

A laptop running Ubuntu with a Wi-Fi signal icon and a red error symbol indicating network issues. Credit: Richard Dezso/How-To Geek | DREAM LAB

My niche use case isn’t the only reason to run multiple SSIDs. For instance, older laptops and gaming consoles sometimes don’t play nice with WPA2/WPA3 protocols, so it can make sense to create a separate SSID for them using an older security protocol such as WPA or even WEP. Just keep in mind that WEP is extremely insecure and should only be used as a last resort for devices that won’t connect any other way.

Many devices also prefer the slower 2.4GHz band, which is usually more congested, especially if you live in an urban area, resulting in a spotty signal that’s anything but stable. Creating a 5GHz SSID is a good way to force devices that can benefit from the faster 5GHz band to use it. Similarly, you can run a separate 2.4GHz network while combining the 5GHz and 6GHz bands under a single SSID.

On top of that, VPNs often drop their connection on devices that constantly jump between different Wi-Fi bands, which can create a ton of headaches, especially if you work from home on a company laptop. Creating a single-band SSID can help solve VPN-related issues.

Screenshot 2025-04-08 at 10.36.14 AM

Brand

TP-Link

Wi-Fi Bands

Tri-Band

If you want a great Wi-Fi 6e router but don’t want to spend a whole lot of money, check out this one from TP-Link.


Many IoT devices have issues with 5GHz and 6GHz networks

2.4GHz is the way to go for most smart home devices

An iPhone showing some smart home scenes with some icons around. Credit: 

Lucas Gouveia / Justin Duino / How-To Geek | Michael Traitov / Shutterstock

Before I segmented my Wi-Fi bands, I went through hell trying to connect my first smart device—a simple RGB smart bulb—to my home Wi-Fi. It took me multiple hours spread across two days before I finally got the thing working. A quick bit of research showed that many IoT devices don’t play nice with SSIDs that combine multiple Wi-Fi bands, but I didn’t want to create multiple SSIDs just for one lightbulb.

After separating my Wi-Fi bands, I’ve connected four smart bulbs and multiple other smart devices (air purifiers and a few smart light switches) and, surprise, surprise, connecting them to the 2.4GHz SSID has always been an absolute breeze.

If you’re also running a single SSID and having issues with IoT devices, separating the 2.4GHz band into its own SSID can make a world of difference. Alternatively, you can create a 2.4GHz guest network reserved for your smart devices. Or, better yet, switch to devices with Thread or Zigbee support, which is an even better solution if your budget allows it.

Colors

Multicolor

Connectivity

Wi-Fi & Bluetooth

For inexpensive but reliable color changing bulbs, it’s tough to beat Govee. The bulbs are bright and colorful, and the Govee app has a ton of fun patterns for every mood and season.


Keep your guests on a guest network

Safety first

Two guys sitting on a beanbag using their phones, a Wi-Fi icon in the background, and the guest Wi-Fi connected. Credit: Lucas Gouveia / How-To Geek | ViDI Studio / Shutterstock

Another reason to have multiple SSIDs is to set up a guest network that’s separated from your main Wi-Fi network—if your router supports it, of course. Even if you know the people using your Wi-Fi, you don’t know their devices. They might have malware installed without realizing it or be compromised in some other way, which could create a mess and isn’t great from a privacy standpoint.

By setting up a guest network, you can keep your own devices safe while still giving people visiting your home a way to access the internet without having to share your main Wi-Fi password.

On top of that, having a guest network can be handy when you don’t want to connect certain devices you own to your main Wi-Fi network. If you’ve got a testbed PC you use for experimentation and fun projects that could compromise your main network security, connect it to the guest network. Bought a used device and aren’t sure it’s been properly wiped before turning it on for the first time? It’s better to connect it to the guest network first before making sure it’s safe to use on your main Wi-Fi.


Don’t go overboard

While running multiple SSIDs offers many benefits, you shouldn’t set up too many of them. Too many SSIDs can lead to congestion and performance issues, especially if you’re using a less capable router. That said, you should be fine with four or five SSIDs even if you own a budget Wi-Fi 5 router.


A Mercusys BE3600 MR25BE Wi-Fi 7 router.


4 router features that’ll make you wonder why your ISP keeps them hidden

Your router can do all this—and your ISP doesn’t want you to know



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Recent Reviews


I built my first PC in my early teens, and I just never really stopped. A passion for building desktops turned into a career, and two decades later, I still love everything about the process of building a PC, from picking the parts to actually assembling them and benchmarking the final rig.

With all that said, I’m about to buy a prebuilt PC, and it’s not just because of the prices, although they do play a part.

For most people, a prebuilt gets the important stuff right

If you shop smart, it can be a safe way to get a desktop

No, I haven’t somehow abandoned everything I’ve stood by for the last two decades. I still love PC building, and yes, I do normally try to convince my less building-inclined friends to build their own PC rather than buy a dodgy prebuilt. (It usually doesn’t work.)

I’m not exactly throwing in the towel. I’m just opening up my mind to possibilities. And the fact is that the vast majority of people who use desktop PCs don’t need the bleeding-edge performance or top-notch customization that comes with building your own computer. For most people, a prebuilt PC is just fine.

That’s exactly why I’m buying a prebuilt instead of building one myself: the computer is for my mom.



















Quiz
8 Questions · Test Your Knowledge

DIY PC building
Trivia Challenge

From socket types to cable chaos — test your knowledge of building computers from scratch.

HistoryHardwareTroubleshootingQuirksTips

What year did Intel release the first consumer processor that popularized the DIY desktop PC market — the Intel 8086?

Correct! The Intel 8086 launched in 1978 and gave birth to the x86 architecture still used in PCs today. It was a 16-bit processor running at 5–10 MHz — a far cry from today’s multi-GHz giants. This chip laid the foundation for decades of DIY computing.

Not quite — the Intel 8086 debuted in 1978. It introduced the x86 instruction set that still underpins virtually every desktop and laptop processor sold today. IBM later used the cheaper 8088 variant for its first PC in 1981, which is sometimes confused as the origin point.

When building a PC, what does ‘POST’ stand for in the context of the boot process?

Correct! POST stands for Power-On Self-Test, a diagnostic routine your motherboard runs every time you boot up. It checks that critical components like RAM, CPU, and GPU are present and functional. If POST fails, you’ll often get beep codes or LED indicators to help diagnose the problem.

The correct answer is Power-On Self-Test. Every time you press the power button, your motherboard runs POST to verify that essential hardware is connected and working. Failed POST is one of the first hurdles new PC builders encounter, often caused by unseated RAM or a forgotten power connector.

Why do experienced PC builders recommend touching a metal part of the case before handling components?

Correct! Static electricity built up on your body can silently destroy sensitive PC components in an instant — a phenomenon called electrostatic discharge (ESD). Touching bare metal grounds you and neutralizes that charge before it can zap your CPU or RAM. Anti-static wrist straps work even better for extended build sessions.

The answer is to discharge static electricity. Your body can carry thousands of volts of static charge without you feeling a thing, but that invisible zap can permanently damage a CPU or RAM stick. It’s one of the oldest and most important safety habits in PC building — cheap insurance for expensive parts.

A newly built PC powers on, fans spin, but there’s no display output. What is the MOST common first thing to check?

Correct! This is arguably the most common rookie mistake in PC building — plugging the monitor into the motherboard’s video output when a dedicated GPU is installed. The motherboard’s HDMI or DisplayPort is disabled by default when a GPU is present. Always connect your display directly to the graphics card.

The most common culprit is having the monitor plugged into the motherboard’s video port instead of the dedicated GPU. When a graphics card is installed, most systems disable the motherboard’s integrated video outputs automatically. It’s such a frequent mistake that it has become a running joke in PC building communities.

What is the purpose of thermal paste when installing a CPU cooler?

Correct! Even finely machined metal surfaces have tiny imperfections and air gaps at the microscopic level. Thermal paste — also called thermal interface material (TIM) — fills those gaps to ensure maximum heat conduction from the CPU to the cooler. Without it, air pockets act as insulation and temperatures can skyrocket dangerously.

Thermal paste fills microscopic gaps between the CPU lid and the cooler’s base plate. Metal surfaces may look flat and smooth, but at a microscopic scale they’re riddled with tiny ridges and valleys that trap air — and air is a terrible heat conductor. A thin, even layer of thermal paste eliminates those gaps and keeps temperatures in check.

The ATX motherboard form factor, which became the standard for DIY desktop PCs, was introduced by which company and in what year?

Correct! Intel introduced the ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) standard in 1995, replacing the older AT form factor. ATX standardized component placement, power supply connectors, and airflow direction — making DIY builds far more practical and interchangeable. Nearly 30 years later, ATX and its derivatives like Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX still dominate the market.

ATX was introduced by Intel in 1995. It was a major leap forward from the previous AT standard, defining a common layout for motherboards, cases, and power supplies that made mixing and matching components from different vendors straightforward. That standardization is a huge reason DIY PC building became so accessible.

When installing RAM into a motherboard with four slots, where should you install two sticks to enable dual-channel mode on most boards?

Correct! Dual-channel mode requires RAM to be installed in matched pairs on alternating slots — typically A2 and B2, or slots 2 and 4. This allows the memory controller to access both sticks simultaneously, effectively doubling memory bandwidth. Your motherboard manual will show the exact recommended slots, usually color-coded for convenience.

To enable dual-channel mode, RAM should go in alternating slots — such as slots 2 and 4, often color-coded on the motherboard. Placing both sticks in adjacent slots (like 1 and 2) forces single-channel operation, which can noticeably reduce performance in memory-intensive tasks. Always check your motherboard manual for the exact recommended configuration.

What is ‘coil whine’ in the context of a newly built gaming PC?

Correct! Coil whine is a high-pitched, sometimes whirring or buzzing noise caused by tiny electromagnetic coils (inductors) on a GPU or PSU vibrating at audible frequencies under heavy electrical load. It’s technically a defect in manufacturing tolerances but is extremely common and not usually harmful to the component. Ironically, it’s often loudest in high-end GPUs under uncapped framerates.

Coil whine is that annoying high-pitched squeal coming from inductors on your GPU or power supply vibrating under electrical load. It tends to be loudest when framerates are uncapped or during heavy computational tasks. While alarming to new builders, it’s usually harmless — though some manufacturers will replace components with severe coil whine under warranty.

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My mom does actually play quite a few games every single day, so I initially started off by putting parts together in order to get something good, cost-effective, reliable, and equipped with a discrete GPU. But as I ran into more and more roadblocks, I was once again reminded why my friends often can’t be bothered with building their own PCs.

These days, the evergreen belief that custom PCs are somehow better and more worth it than prebuilts is growing slightly outdated. Now, more than ever, many users can get by with a simple plug-and-play PC instead of going on weeks-long deep dives.

ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14

Operating System

Windows 11 Home

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 8000 Series

The ROG Zephyrus G14 has been redesigned with an all-new premium aluminum chassis for increased durability and elegance. At 0.63 inches thin and weighing in at just 3.31lbs, this gaming powerhouse combines portability with cutting-edge technology.


Building PCs is great fun, but it’s not for everyone

I’ve stopped trying to convince my friends otherwise

A white full-tower desktop gaming PC with a mATX case, large air cooler, and RX 6800. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Building your own PC is one of the most satisfying things you can do if you’re a desktop user, but that’s only true if you actually enjoy the whole process. Over the years, I’ve realized that many people just don’t enjoy it, and that’s alright. It can be overwhelming, and it becomes more of a hobbyist thing than a go-to with each passing year.

A lot of people don’t want to spend their evenings watching reviews, comparing chipsets, going through benchmarks, wondering whether there’s enough PSU headroom or whether a motherboard will need a BIOS update, and so on. Those same people might still want to own a desktop PC, and good prebuilts exist to save us all the trouble.

For someone like my mom, who is definitely a casual user, building a PC would make zero sense. I’d put in a lot of effort—I always go way overkill with every single build—and it’d have been wasted. And yes, I’d have fun, but for my mom, the end user, the end result would’ve been one and the same.

For a regular desktop user, a good prebuilt often gets the important things right without demanding that kind of effort. It comes assembled, tested, and ready to go, and it usually bundles the parts that matter most to everyday use: a modern CPU, enough RAM, a decent SSD, built-in connectivity, and some kind of warranty if things go wrong.

Besides, most desktop users aren’t like enthusiasts; they don’t need to optimize every tiny little thing. Looking at various Steam Hardware Surveys tells us that people go for the midrange time and time again, and I find it hard to believe that all those RTX 4060 owners overclock their PCs and spend hundreds of dollars on cooling.

In 2026, the market makes this whole argument a lot easier

Let’s not ignore the elephant in the room

Crucial DDR5 RAM and an M.2 NVMe in their original packaging. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

At a time when we’ve all done our panic buying and given up on the PC market, buying a prebuilt makes even more sense. Here’s how I know: I tried to build a PC first.

As that’s my default, obviously, I started by assembling a list of components my mom could use and going on a price-matching crusade. Some parts are reasonably affordable, such as the CPU, the motherboard, or the cooler, but the overpriced components make up for whatever you might manage to save on the other stuff. Getting RAM, an SSD, and a discrete GPU brand new right now is a challenge, and these pricing obstacles remove one of the best things about custom builds: saving money.

Typically, when you build your own PC, you save on the cost of assembly that’s baked into a prebuilt. You can also score better deals on the components themselves. But when there are very few deals to be had, and you don’t want to buy used, well, you’re kind of left with no upgrades right now. The best way to upgrade your PC in this climate is to spend zero dollars and wait it out.

Prebuilts aren’t perfect, but they can be good enough

Don’t let elitist communities tell you otherwise

A wall-mounted OLED TV connected to a desktop PC being used to watch "Fargo." Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Prebuilts are a good solution right now. Some manufacturers still haven’t carried the increased cost of parts over to the consumer, or at least not entirely, and if you score a good deal, you’ll actually save both time and money. You’ll miss out on the fun, but for many people, it’s more of a chore than entertainment.

With that said, prebuilts aren’t perfect. When you shop, make sure that you keep an eye out for some of the most common prebuilt PC traps.


There are alternatives

If you don’t want to buy a prebuilt PC but still want to save time and/or money and not build your own, you can always consider buying a used PC or a mini PC. I’ve toyed with the idea of a mini PC for my mom, and it’d be cheaper, but I want her to have a discrete GPU, so we’re going with a full-sized prebuilt.

However, if you don’t need a discrete graphics card, buying a mini PC can be a good, affordable way to get yourself a desktop replacement with minimal hassle. (Hint: mini PCs also make good sidekicks for actual desktops.)



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