Why gigabit Ethernet is still the right choice for homelabs


In the world of homelabbing, 10 gigabit Ethernet (GbE) has become the aspirational standard. But there is a significant difference between an aspirational goal and a practical reason.

The problem is the cost of 10GbE. You can’t just buy a new network interface card (NIC) and call it a day. To actually get those speeds, you have to upgrade your switches, your cabling, and your endpoints—it costs hundreds of dollars. Unless your specific workload is genuinely saturating a gigabit connection, you are paying a premium for headroom that you will never actually use.

The real world usually doesn’t justify the cost

What are you doing that needs more than 125 MB/s?

A wide shot of a Seagate IronWolf 4TB hard drive standing in front of the Ugreen iDX6011 Pro NAS. Credit: Patrick Campanale / How-To Geek

When you’re considering your networking needs, you need to look at the actual numbers, and then put that in context of your files.

Gigabit Ethernet provides a theoretical maximum of 125 MB/s. Consider that speed in the context of streaming, for example. Even a high-bitrate 4K movie will only consume 15 MB/s—a small fraction of the bandwidth available on a gigabit connection. You could stream to multiple TVs, phones, and laptops simultaneously before your bandwidth became a significant problem.

Unless you are planning to stream 16K video—which isn’t likely—your network isn’t going to be the bottleneck. Even enormous file transfers, the most common justification for the upgrade, are rarely a daily necessity. How often are you actually moving terabytes of data between machines in a single session? For most homelabbers, the tedium of slightly slower transfers happens once a month, if that.

Most of the services that make a homelab great, like Jellyfin, Home Assistant, Pi-hole, and a handful of other Docker containers, don’t come close to saturating a gigabit connection.

Bottlenecks are usually a different component

Even if you throw 10GbE hardware into your homelab setup, you’ll likely find that the real bottleneck is somewhere else, or that you’ve created a new bottleneck somewhere else.

If you are using mechanical hard drives in your NAS, the physical read and write speed of those drives will cap your performance long before you get anywhere close to 10GbE. Similarly, if your NAS CPU is struggling to transcode your content or your client device is connected via a weak Wi-Fi connection, 10GbE switches and routers won’t help the situation.

A faster server and a wireless network with more reliable coverage would be a more meaningful improvement to your real world performance.

10GbE infrastructure is expensive

Every device in the line needs to support it

If you do decide to move to 10GbE, you have to upgrade every device in the chain—and that costs. A 10GbE switch can easily cost three times more than a gigabit model with the same number of ports.

Then there are the actual cables. Depending on how far you’re running the cable, you may need to swap out existing Ethernet cables for Cat6a or even fiber optic. Cat6a isn’t especially expensive, but fiber optic cables and SFP+ modules can get expensive quickly. One SFP+ transceiver starts at about $18 and only goes up from there.

The money required to fully implement 10GbE across a few nodes could instead buy you several more high-capacity hard drives, a RAM upgrade for your server, a higher-quality CPU, or a dedicated GPU for local AI tasks.

When 10GbE Ethernet is actually useful

If you’re not completely sure you need it, you probably don’t

Angled laptop view of Jellyfin home screen with recently added movie rows. Credit: Patrick Campanale / How-To Geek

There are scenarios where 10GbE actually makes sense. If you are editing large 4K video files directly off a NAS or some other networked storage, gigabit will be a problem. Similarly, if you are backing up multiple machines simultaneously to a device equipped with NVMe SSDs, regularly moving terabytes of data, or running several VMs where the virtual disks are stored on a separate network server, it might make sense.

If your daily routine doesn’t involve professional-grade media production or massive storage arrays, you don’t need the speed boost. The only time 10GbE makes sense is when you have measured your current traffic and proven that gigabit Ethernet is the specific bottleneck holding you back.

If you do find that your network needs extra bandwidth, you should check into 2.5GbE first. It is much less expensive than 10GbE, and you might not even need to upgrade your Ethernet cables to start using it.


Spend the 10GbE budget on something that actually improves your homelab

At the end of the day, 10GbE can be nice to have, but it probably isn’t a necessity. The kinds of jobs that justify the cost aren’t common in homelab setups.

You should spend the money you’d otherwise spend on 10GbE on something more immediately practical. Invest in a reliable UPS to protect your hardware, add extra storage or RAM, or upgrade your CPU to handle even more containers.



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Recent Reviews


If you are a book purist, you might scoff when I recommend an e-reader instead of buying physical books, and I won’t blame you. The allure of the smell of pages, the weight of the book in my hands, the whole ritual, is hard to resist. 

However, if you allow me some leeway to convince you, there’s a strong argument to be made against physical books and in favor of using e-readers. So let me make the case for e-readers, because once you understand what you’ve been missing, it’s hard to go back.

Your entire library fits in your bag

This is the most obvious advantage, but it doesn’t get enough credit. I always read more than one book at a time, and carrying two or three physical books around is not realistic. Thick books alone are a chore to carry.

With an e-reader, you carry hundreds of books in a slim package. Switching between titles takes a second. If you travel frequently, this alone is reason enough to make the switch.

A thousand-page hardcover is great for your bookshelf but terrible for your commute.

Fat books are a workout, not a reading experience

If, like me, you are into fantasy books, you know they can be a behemoth to handle. You have to constantly shift how you’re holding it, find a way to keep it open, and somehow also stay comfortable. Thin books are fine, but the moment a book crosses a certain thickness, it starts working against you.

An e-reader weighs the same regardless of whether you’re reading a short novel or a massive fantasy series. That’s it. Whether I am reading The Count of Monte Cristo or the next book in Brandon Sanderson’s The Stormlight Archive series, my Supernote Nomad remains the same. 

Reading at night without waking anyone up

I do a lot of my reading at night, and this is where physical books completely fall apart for me. Lamps and book lights never feel comfortable. The light is never quite right, and if you share a room with someone, the whole setup becomes a problem.

Most e-readers, including Kindles, have a built-in backlight that you can dim to whatever level feels right. You can even switch to warm light mode, making it easier on your eyes. 

I’ve read at 3 AM with the brightness all the way down, and it felt completely natural. No lamp and no squinting required. 

Look up any word without losing your place

English is not my first language, and even for native speakers, encountering an unfamiliar word in the middle of a chapter is common. With a physical book, your options are to grab your phone and look it up, which almost always leads to distraction, or skip it and lose a bit of meaning.

On a Kindle or most other e-readers, you tap the word and the definition appears instantly. You can translate it, add it to a vocabulary list, and get back to reading in seconds. I look up far more words now than I ever did with physical books, and my reading comprehension is genuinely better for it.

Taking notes you’ll actually use later

I used to annotate physical books with a pen, and those notes would just sit there on the page, never to be seen again. Transferring them somewhere useful took more effort than I was ever willing to put in.

With my Supernote Nomad, I can use its Digest feature to clip what I am reading and quickly add any additional handwritten notes. I can then export those notes to Obsidian and process them. 

If you use any e-reader, highlighting a passage and adding a note will take a couple of seconds. Most e-readers also aggregate all your highlights and notes in one place, allowing you to quickly riffle through your notes without flipping pages. 

With physical books, my notes died on the page. With an e-reader, they became something I actually use.

Since these are digital notes, you can process them into your note-taking app to further digest the material.

Books are cheaper and easier to buy

Buying physical books is always more expensive than getting the digital version. Also, since most publishers are phasing out mass-market paperbacks, we are left with trade paperback and hardcover options, which may look better but also cost significantly more.

E-books don’t have that problem. I have purchased several books at less than half the price I would have paid for a physical version. Also, most of the time, e-books are on sale, making them even more affordable. 

And when you find a book you want to read at midnight, you don’t have to wait for a delivery or drive to a store. You buy it and start reading immediately. The convenience is hard to overstate once you get used to it.

Should you switch?

If you love the experience of physical books, the covers, the smell, the shelf aesthetic, that’s a completely valid reason to stick with them. There’s nothing wrong with it. I myself am curating my own bookshelf, and there will always be a place for those special books. 

But for convenience and ease of discovery and reading, I recommend you at least invest in one e-reader. It’s also one of the best times to buy them, as you can get good options around $100

Since these are e-readers, you don’t even need to upgrade them as often as your phone. If you don’t accidentally break them, they can easily last 5-6 years, making them worth the investment.



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