The forgotten PC ports that completely embarrass modern USB


At this point in time, if your PC still has certain ports, it’s officially too old. But that doesn’t mean that those ports (and your PC by extension) weren’t genius in their own right, or that they weren’t (in some ways) better than USB.

Whether they’re fully legacy, outdated, and forgotten, or only legacy-adjacent, some ports really could do it all. Here are some of those old-school ports that I honestly wish were still commonplace, because they addressed problems that USB cannot.

These ports weren’t 100% better, but they had their perks

They had USB beat in one key way each

I’m not here to claim that the ports I’ll talk about below are universally better. They’re not.

USB is flexible, compact, hot-swappable, and it’s literally everywhere, which matters more than any single advantage an older port might have had. But when you think about these ports, it’s hard not to think “what if,” and wish we could have some magical version of USB that actually had all these perks and more.

Some of these old ports were extremely good at the one job they were built to do. PS/2 had its keyboard perks, VGA could rescue you if you were dealing with ancient display equipment, and so on. Here’s why those outdated ports were actually pretty awesome.



















Quiz
8 Questions · Test Your Knowledge

USB standards & connectors
Trivia Challenge

From clunky Type-A plugs to lightning-fast USB4 — test your knowledge of the universal serial bus revolution.

HistoryConnectorsSpeedsStandardsHardware

In what year was the original USB 1.0 specification officially released?

Correct! USB 1.0 was released in January 1996 by a consortium led by Intel, Compaq, Microsoft, and others. It aimed to replace the chaotic mix of serial ports, parallel ports, and PS/2 connectors that plagued early PCs.

Not quite — USB 1.0 launched in January 1996. It was developed by a consortium including Intel and Microsoft to simplify the frustrating tangle of legacy ports on personal computers at the time.

What is the maximum data transfer rate of USB 2.0, also known as ‘Hi-Speed’ USB?

Correct! USB 2.0 tops out at 480 Mbps, which is why it earned the ‘Hi-Speed’ label when it launched in 2000. That was a massive leap over USB 1.1’s 12 Mbps Full Speed ceiling, making it practical for external hard drives and cameras.

Not quite — the correct answer is 480 Mbps. USB 2.0 is branded ‘Hi-Speed’ and launched in 2000, offering a 40x improvement over USB 1.1’s Full Speed 12 Mbps mode, which made external storage far more viable.

Which USB connector type was specifically designed for use with mobile phones and cameras, featuring a distinctive 5-pin trapezoidal shape?

Correct! USB Mini-B was the go-to connector for early digital cameras and mobile phones before being largely replaced. It features a recognizable five-pin trapezoidal design and was formally specified in USB 2.0, though it has since been superseded by Micro-B and USB-C.

The correct answer is USB Mini-B. It was the standard connector for early digital cameras and many mobile phones, featuring a 5-pin trapezoidal shape. It was eventually displaced by the slimmer Micro-B connector, which allowed for thinner device designs.

USB 3.0 was later rebranded by the USB Implementers Forum. What is its current official name?

Correct! The USB-IF rebranded USB 3.0 as USB 3.2 Gen 1 to fit into a unified naming scheme. It still delivers the same 5 Gbps ‘SuperSpeed’ transfer rate — the confusing renaming was meant to streamline the standard’s versioning but arguably made it more complicated.

Not quite — USB 3.0 is now officially called USB 3.2 Gen 1. The USB Implementers Forum rebranded the entire USB 3.x family to create a unified naming structure, though the 5 Gbps SuperSpeed performance of the original USB 3.0 remains unchanged.

What key physical feature makes USB Type-C different from all previous USB connector types?

Correct! USB Type-C’s most celebrated feature is its symmetrical, reversible design — you can plug it in either way without fumbling. Introduced in 2014, it also supports far higher power delivery and data speeds than older connectors, making it a true universal solution.

The standout feature is its fully reversible design — you can insert a USB-C plug either way up, ending the frustration of guessing the correct orientation. Introduced in 2014, USB-C also supports higher power delivery and data speeds than its predecessors.

Which organization is responsible for developing and publishing the USB specification?

Correct! The USB Implementers Forum (USB-IF) is the non-profit organization formed by the original USB developers to maintain and promote the USB specification. Founded in 1995, it certifies compliant products and grants the right to use the official USB logo.

The correct answer is the USB-IF, or USB Implementers Forum. This non-profit was founded in 1995 by the companies that originally developed USB, including Intel and Microsoft. It maintains the specification, runs compliance programs, and certifies products to carry the USB logo.

What maximum power output did USB Power Delivery 3.1 introduce, enabling charging of high-performance laptops?

Correct! USB Power Delivery 3.1, released in 2021, dramatically raised the ceiling to 240 watts using Extended Power Range (EPR) mode. This is enough to charge even power-hungry gaming laptops and workstations over a single USB-C cable, replacing bulky proprietary chargers.

The answer is 240 watts. USB Power Delivery 3.1, introduced in 2021, added an Extended Power Range (EPR) mode that maxes out at 240W over a USB-C cable. Earlier PD versions were capped at 100W, which was insufficient for many high-performance laptops.

USB4, released in 2019, is based on which company’s proprietary technology that was donated to the USB-IF?

Correct! Intel donated the Thunderbolt 3 specification to the USB-IF, which became the foundation for USB4. This means USB4 at its fastest tier (40 Gbps) is technically compatible with Thunderbolt 3 devices, blurring the line between the two standards significantly.

The correct answer is Intel’s Thunderbolt 3. Intel donated its Thunderbolt 3 spec to the USB Implementers Forum, and it became the basis for USB4. The top USB4 speed tier of 40 Gbps mirrors Thunderbolt 3, and the two standards share a high degree of compatibility.

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5 legacy ports that still beat USB

How many of these are you familiar with?

USB-C port and SIM card slot on the bottom of the Samsung Galaxy S25.
The Samsung Galaxy S25 without a 3.5mm headphone jack on the bottom.
Credit: Justin Duino / How-To Geek

I’ve used every single port listed below. They’re all but extinct, with one or two notable exceptions, but personally, I haven’t used any of these in a long time.

1. PS/2

ps-2-to-usb-adapter

The PS/2 port was a round, usually purple or green connector you’d find on older PCs, and it was used for keyboards and mice. PS/2 showed up on countless motherboards, office PCs, and prebuilt desktops, but you’ll mostly only see it today on older systems or a handful of enthusiast motherboards that still keep it around for compatibility.

What made PS/2 interesting is that it was a dedicated input port, not just one device competing for attention on a shared USB controller. Its big technical claim to fame is that it used interrupts instead of USB-style polling, which is why you’ll sometimes hear that it has lower latency or better keyboard rollover.

2. RS-232 serial

The RS-232 serial ports, often just called COM ports, were once found on desktop PCs, laptops, modems, networking gear, and all sorts of hardware. They used those chunky D-sub connectors, usually with nine pins on PCs, and they were good at letting one device talk to another.

Believe it or not, the COM port had USB beat with its simplicity. USB is faster and more convenient, but it depends on device detection, drivers, operating system support, and a whole lot more negotiation before anything useful happens. RS-232 is much dumber, and I mean that in the nicest way possible. Once the basic settings match, it can send plain commands back and forth with little to no overhead. That made it useful for modems, networking consoles, industrial machines, and so on. As a result, USB-to-serial adapters exist today.

3. The 3.5mm audio jack

Close up of a person holding a 3.5mm cable Credit: Corbin Davenport / How-To Geek

I have a feeling that this is the entry that’s going to get the most pushback, but I stand by it: the 3.5mm audio jack is on its way out, whether we like it or not. It may not truly be dead on desktop PCs, where motherboard audio ports are still common, but most phones, tablets, and thin laptops have already waved goodbye to the humble 3.5mm audio jack.

For decades, this little round port was the default way to connect audio equipment. It still beats USB in the same way some other ports on this list do: with simplicity. No pairing, no charging, no dongle, no drivers. It just works as long as you plug it into the correct jack. USB audio can be excellent, and Bluetooth is convenient, but the 3.5mm audio jack is still hard to beat.

4. Optical S/PDIF

Optical S/PDIF, often called TOSLINK, was the little square-ish audio port with a flap or red light hiding inside it. Unlike the 3.5mm jack, it didn’t carry analog audio, but it carried digital audio over light through a fiber-optic cable, which already made it feel far fancier and more futuristic than it actually was.

Its biggest win over ISB lies in isolation. Because optical audio uses light instead of an electrical connection, it can avoid some of the grounding and electrical noise problems that can creep into PC audio setups.

5. FireWire

FireWire, also known as IEEE 1394, was a high-speed port that showed up on some desktops, Macs, camcorders, external drives, and pro audio gear. It was especially common for MiniDV and HDV camcorders, where it could transfer digital video from tape to a computer.

FireWire’s advantage was that it was built for steady, reliable data transfer, especially for audio and video work. It also had peer-to-peer capabilities, meaning devices could communicate without leaning on the host system in the same way USB did (and still does).

Old ports are only useless until you need one

USB is universal, but it’s not perfect

Two USB flash drives plugged into a computer. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Most of the ports on the list above are all but useless now, but in the rare event that you own a device that connects through them, you’ll probably wish you could have a PC that can still support them. While it’d certainly be nice to have a computer that can support a million different ports, the reality of it would be so impractical that it makes sense to let go and embrace USB fully, with all of its perks and its downsides.


Flexibility definitely wins these days

Each of these ports managed to beat USB in some way, all the while no longer being the current standard. The reason is simple: flexibility always wins. USB may be confusing, but most devices support it these days, and that convenience is more important than an (often insignificant) performance improvement.



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Recent Reviews


I built my first PC in my early teens, and I just never really stopped. A passion for building desktops turned into a career, and two decades later, I still love everything about the process of building a PC, from picking the parts to actually assembling them and benchmarking the final rig.

With all that said, I’m about to buy a prebuilt PC, and it’s not just because of the prices, although they do play a part.

For most people, a prebuilt gets the important stuff right

If you shop smart, it can be a safe way to get a desktop

No, I haven’t somehow abandoned everything I’ve stood by for the last two decades. I still love PC building, and yes, I do normally try to convince my less building-inclined friends to build their own PC rather than buy a dodgy prebuilt. (It usually doesn’t work.)

I’m not exactly throwing in the towel. I’m just opening up my mind to possibilities. And the fact is that the vast majority of people who use desktop PCs don’t need the bleeding-edge performance or top-notch customization that comes with building your own computer. For most people, a prebuilt PC is just fine.

That’s exactly why I’m buying a prebuilt instead of building one myself: the computer is for my mom.



















Quiz
8 Questions · Test Your Knowledge

DIY PC building
Trivia Challenge

From socket types to cable chaos — test your knowledge of building computers from scratch.

HistoryHardwareTroubleshootingQuirksTips

What year did Intel release the first consumer processor that popularized the DIY desktop PC market — the Intel 8086?

Correct! The Intel 8086 launched in 1978 and gave birth to the x86 architecture still used in PCs today. It was a 16-bit processor running at 5–10 MHz — a far cry from today’s multi-GHz giants. This chip laid the foundation for decades of DIY computing.

Not quite — the Intel 8086 debuted in 1978. It introduced the x86 instruction set that still underpins virtually every desktop and laptop processor sold today. IBM later used the cheaper 8088 variant for its first PC in 1981, which is sometimes confused as the origin point.

When building a PC, what does ‘POST’ stand for in the context of the boot process?

Correct! POST stands for Power-On Self-Test, a diagnostic routine your motherboard runs every time you boot up. It checks that critical components like RAM, CPU, and GPU are present and functional. If POST fails, you’ll often get beep codes or LED indicators to help diagnose the problem.

The correct answer is Power-On Self-Test. Every time you press the power button, your motherboard runs POST to verify that essential hardware is connected and working. Failed POST is one of the first hurdles new PC builders encounter, often caused by unseated RAM or a forgotten power connector.

Why do experienced PC builders recommend touching a metal part of the case before handling components?

Correct! Static electricity built up on your body can silently destroy sensitive PC components in an instant — a phenomenon called electrostatic discharge (ESD). Touching bare metal grounds you and neutralizes that charge before it can zap your CPU or RAM. Anti-static wrist straps work even better for extended build sessions.

The answer is to discharge static electricity. Your body can carry thousands of volts of static charge without you feeling a thing, but that invisible zap can permanently damage a CPU or RAM stick. It’s one of the oldest and most important safety habits in PC building — cheap insurance for expensive parts.

A newly built PC powers on, fans spin, but there’s no display output. What is the MOST common first thing to check?

Correct! This is arguably the most common rookie mistake in PC building — plugging the monitor into the motherboard’s video output when a dedicated GPU is installed. The motherboard’s HDMI or DisplayPort is disabled by default when a GPU is present. Always connect your display directly to the graphics card.

The most common culprit is having the monitor plugged into the motherboard’s video port instead of the dedicated GPU. When a graphics card is installed, most systems disable the motherboard’s integrated video outputs automatically. It’s such a frequent mistake that it has become a running joke in PC building communities.

What is the purpose of thermal paste when installing a CPU cooler?

Correct! Even finely machined metal surfaces have tiny imperfections and air gaps at the microscopic level. Thermal paste — also called thermal interface material (TIM) — fills those gaps to ensure maximum heat conduction from the CPU to the cooler. Without it, air pockets act as insulation and temperatures can skyrocket dangerously.

Thermal paste fills microscopic gaps between the CPU lid and the cooler’s base plate. Metal surfaces may look flat and smooth, but at a microscopic scale they’re riddled with tiny ridges and valleys that trap air — and air is a terrible heat conductor. A thin, even layer of thermal paste eliminates those gaps and keeps temperatures in check.

The ATX motherboard form factor, which became the standard for DIY desktop PCs, was introduced by which company and in what year?

Correct! Intel introduced the ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) standard in 1995, replacing the older AT form factor. ATX standardized component placement, power supply connectors, and airflow direction — making DIY builds far more practical and interchangeable. Nearly 30 years later, ATX and its derivatives like Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX still dominate the market.

ATX was introduced by Intel in 1995. It was a major leap forward from the previous AT standard, defining a common layout for motherboards, cases, and power supplies that made mixing and matching components from different vendors straightforward. That standardization is a huge reason DIY PC building became so accessible.

When installing RAM into a motherboard with four slots, where should you install two sticks to enable dual-channel mode on most boards?

Correct! Dual-channel mode requires RAM to be installed in matched pairs on alternating slots — typically A2 and B2, or slots 2 and 4. This allows the memory controller to access both sticks simultaneously, effectively doubling memory bandwidth. Your motherboard manual will show the exact recommended slots, usually color-coded for convenience.

To enable dual-channel mode, RAM should go in alternating slots — such as slots 2 and 4, often color-coded on the motherboard. Placing both sticks in adjacent slots (like 1 and 2) forces single-channel operation, which can noticeably reduce performance in memory-intensive tasks. Always check your motherboard manual for the exact recommended configuration.

What is ‘coil whine’ in the context of a newly built gaming PC?

Correct! Coil whine is a high-pitched, sometimes whirring or buzzing noise caused by tiny electromagnetic coils (inductors) on a GPU or PSU vibrating at audible frequencies under heavy electrical load. It’s technically a defect in manufacturing tolerances but is extremely common and not usually harmful to the component. Ironically, it’s often loudest in high-end GPUs under uncapped framerates.

Coil whine is that annoying high-pitched squeal coming from inductors on your GPU or power supply vibrating under electrical load. It tends to be loudest when framerates are uncapped or during heavy computational tasks. While alarming to new builders, it’s usually harmless — though some manufacturers will replace components with severe coil whine under warranty.

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My mom does actually play quite a few games every single day, so I initially started off by putting parts together in order to get something good, cost-effective, reliable, and equipped with a discrete GPU. But as I ran into more and more roadblocks, I was once again reminded why my friends often can’t be bothered with building their own PCs.

These days, the evergreen belief that custom PCs are somehow better and more worth it than prebuilts is growing slightly outdated. Now, more than ever, many users can get by with a simple plug-and-play PC instead of going on weeks-long deep dives.

ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14

Operating System

Windows 11 Home

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 8000 Series

The ROG Zephyrus G14 has been redesigned with an all-new premium aluminum chassis for increased durability and elegance. At 0.63 inches thin and weighing in at just 3.31lbs, this gaming powerhouse combines portability with cutting-edge technology.


Building PCs is great fun, but it’s not for everyone

I’ve stopped trying to convince my friends otherwise

A white full-tower desktop gaming PC with a mATX case, large air cooler, and RX 6800. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Building your own PC is one of the most satisfying things you can do if you’re a desktop user, but that’s only true if you actually enjoy the whole process. Over the years, I’ve realized that many people just don’t enjoy it, and that’s alright. It can be overwhelming, and it becomes more of a hobbyist thing than a go-to with each passing year.

A lot of people don’t want to spend their evenings watching reviews, comparing chipsets, going through benchmarks, wondering whether there’s enough PSU headroom or whether a motherboard will need a BIOS update, and so on. Those same people might still want to own a desktop PC, and good prebuilts exist to save us all the trouble.

For someone like my mom, who is definitely a casual user, building a PC would make zero sense. I’d put in a lot of effort—I always go way overkill with every single build—and it’d have been wasted. And yes, I’d have fun, but for my mom, the end user, the end result would’ve been one and the same.

For a regular desktop user, a good prebuilt often gets the important things right without demanding that kind of effort. It comes assembled, tested, and ready to go, and it usually bundles the parts that matter most to everyday use: a modern CPU, enough RAM, a decent SSD, built-in connectivity, and some kind of warranty if things go wrong.

Besides, most desktop users aren’t like enthusiasts; they don’t need to optimize every tiny little thing. Looking at various Steam Hardware Surveys tells us that people go for the midrange time and time again, and I find it hard to believe that all those RTX 4060 owners overclock their PCs and spend hundreds of dollars on cooling.

In 2026, the market makes this whole argument a lot easier

Let’s not ignore the elephant in the room

Crucial DDR5 RAM and an M.2 NVMe in their original packaging. Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

At a time when we’ve all done our panic buying and given up on the PC market, buying a prebuilt makes even more sense. Here’s how I know: I tried to build a PC first.

As that’s my default, obviously, I started by assembling a list of components my mom could use and going on a price-matching crusade. Some parts are reasonably affordable, such as the CPU, the motherboard, or the cooler, but the overpriced components make up for whatever you might manage to save on the other stuff. Getting RAM, an SSD, and a discrete GPU brand new right now is a challenge, and these pricing obstacles remove one of the best things about custom builds: saving money.

Typically, when you build your own PC, you save on the cost of assembly that’s baked into a prebuilt. You can also score better deals on the components themselves. But when there are very few deals to be had, and you don’t want to buy used, well, you’re kind of left with no upgrades right now. The best way to upgrade your PC in this climate is to spend zero dollars and wait it out.

Prebuilts aren’t perfect, but they can be good enough

Don’t let elitist communities tell you otherwise

A wall-mounted OLED TV connected to a desktop PC being used to watch "Fargo." Credit: Ismar Hrnjicevic / How-To Geek

Prebuilts are a good solution right now. Some manufacturers still haven’t carried the increased cost of parts over to the consumer, or at least not entirely, and if you score a good deal, you’ll actually save both time and money. You’ll miss out on the fun, but for many people, it’s more of a chore than entertainment.

With that said, prebuilts aren’t perfect. When you shop, make sure that you keep an eye out for some of the most common prebuilt PC traps.


There are alternatives

If you don’t want to buy a prebuilt PC but still want to save time and/or money and not build your own, you can always consider buying a used PC or a mini PC. I’ve toyed with the idea of a mini PC for my mom, and it’d be cheaper, but I want her to have a discrete GPU, so we’re going with a full-sized prebuilt.

However, if you don’t need a discrete graphics card, buying a mini PC can be a good, affordable way to get yourself a desktop replacement with minimal hassle. (Hint: mini PCs also make good sidekicks for actual desktops.)



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