This $7 app does what DLSS 4.5 promises


Although GPUs are currently super expensive, we’re still constantly told that it’s definitely time to upgrade ours. And, in all fairness, Nvidia doesn’t make it easy to say no. The latest iterations of DLSS, including 4.5 and the upcoming 5, are extremely tempting … but does that mean you should be pulling out your wallet?

Not a chance. You most likely don’t need a new GPU, and a $7 app can largely replace a lot of the features that Nvidia uses as its main selling point.

DLSS 4.5 is impressive, but is that a good enough reason to buy a new GPU?

Great tech, narrower payoff

DLSS 4.5 is more than just Nvidia slapping a fresh number on the same old feature set. The tech marks the first time that we’re close to Nvidia living up to its promises of being able to match the performance of an RTX 4090 with an RTX 5070. We’re not quite there yet, but we’re on the way.

The big upgrade this time is a second-gen transformer model for Super Resolution, which improves image quality in ways that are actually easy to notice, especially in motion. Nvidia says it cuts down on ghosting, improves anti-aliasing, and makes the image more stable overall, with the biggest gains showing up in Performance and Ultra Performance modes where upscalers have the hardest job.

That is the part of DLSS 4.5 most people should actually care about. Compared to the previous DLSS 4 rollout, which introduced the transformer model and Multi Frame Generation, DLSS 4.5 adds that newer second-gen transformer model for Super Resolution and also introduces Dynamic Multi Frame Generation, which can automatically adjust the frame generation multiplier depending on the scene instead of sticking to one fixed setting.

All of that stuff is great, but perhaps the best bit for people with older GPUs is that DLSS 4.5 is available to anyone with an RTX GPU. RTX 20-series, 30-series, and 40-series owners can try it out for themselves, although the effects may be diminished (or even negative) prior to the RTX 40-series due to hardware limitations.

But the thing is, every one of these perks comes with a catch, and a lot of them can be addressed with an app that costs literally $7.

Lossless Scaling solves the real problem for a lot less money

Cheap, flexible, and good enough for most uses

Lossless Scaling logo
Lossless Scaling

I’ve been singing the praises of Lossless Scaling for a while now, and with good reason. This $7 Steam app fixes a lot of the things that are wrong with DLSS. In many ways, it can let you hold on to an older GPU for much longer than you would otherwise.

Lossless Scaling works by adding its own LSFG frame generation and optional upscaling on top of games, including titles that don’t have built-in DLSS, FSR, or frame gen support at all. Instead of being baked into each game, it works independently. It’s compatible with most games, vendor-agnostic (meaning it works with every GPU), and even supports older games and emulators.

That flexibility matters more than you might think. DLSS 4.5 is great when a game supports it properly and your GPU is the right generation for the features you want, but LS doesn’t care nearly as much about any of that. It’s easy to use and lets you upscale or use frame gen across countless titles.

It’s also not just a frame generation tool. It can be used to support a dual GPU setup, and it supports several scaling methods.

It’s not a fix-everything-right-now type of thing, but it’s good enough to be easy to recommend to just about anyone. I’m satisfied with my GPU’s performance in nearly every game, and yet, I still use LS to give certain titles an extra boost.

DLSS is still better, but there are caveats

Native support always wins

A performance comparison of Spider-Man Remastered running with DLSS 3 on and off. Credit: Sony / NVIDIA

As much as I love LS, I’m not here to lie to you: DLSS is still the better option, provided both your hardware and the game support it properly. It’s built into the rendering pipeline instead of being layered on top afterward. Besides, Nvidia’s DLSS stack also ties into features like Reflex, which helps keep latency under control while frame generation is doing its thing. That kind of native integration is hard, if not impossible, for a third-party tool to truly match.

Nvidia’s current suite includes upscaling, frame gen, MFG (multi-frame gen), ray reconstruction, DLAA, and Reflex. That’s a lot of different features to turn your nose up at. A game with full DLSS support gets a cleaner and more complete solution than Lossless Scaling can offer, and when stars align, native DLSS should still deliver the best mix of performance, visual quality, and responsiveness.

But, (sorry for the flip-flopping) there’s more to this argument than meets the eye. Aside from the various compatibility-related caveats, which I’ve discussed, DLSS 4.5 still requires an alright base frame rate to work its magic. Otherwise, you might run into stuttering or visual artifacts.

Those issues can and do still happen with Lossless Scaling, but at least you don’t have to pay hundreds of dollars upfront to try it out.

The upgrade treadmill never stops

DLSS 5 will push even more people to spend money

An image showing the difference between DLSS off and DLSS 5 on in Resident Evil 9. Credit: NVIDIA/CAPCOM

And here comes DLSS 5, pushing the upgrades on even more people. Coming later in 2026, DLSS 5 is about more than just boosting frame rates or cleaning up an upscaled image. It introduces real-time rendering that takes a frame’s color and motion vectors as input and then adds photoreal lighting and materials on top. The goal is to achieve film-like visuals in games that didn’t originally have them.

That’s a major shift, and not everyone’s happy about it. Some people went as far as to call the results “AI slop” because of how DLSS 5 completely changes the visuals in games.


My advice? Save your money

There’s a lot of controversy around DLSS 5. Personally, I fully get the hype, but I still don’t think most people absolutely need to upgrade their GPU for DLSS 4.5 or DLSS 5. It comes down to preference, and more than anything, DLSS 5 will be hit by that “anti-fake frames” camp even harder than any of the previous iterations. Gaming purists are rallying against it. Do you like it? That should determine whether you upgrade or not. For pure frame generation, just stick to Lossless Scaling and save your money. At the very least, give it a try to make sure it’s not all you need.



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Spotify aims to provide a consistent listening experience that uses minimal data. As a result, your audio quality might be less than ideal, especially if you’re using a pair of high-fidelity headphones or high-end speakers. Here’s how to fix that.

Switch audio streaming quality to Very High or Lossless

The default audio streaming quality in both the mobile and desktop Spotify apps is set to Automatic, which usually keeps the audio quality at Normal, which is only 96 Kbps. Even though Spotify uses the Ogg Vorbis codec, which is superior to MP3, OGG files exhibit slight (but noticeable) digital noise, poor bass detail, dull treble, and a narrow soundstage at 96 Kbps.

Even worse, Spotify is aggressive about adjusting the automatic bitrate. Even though 4G is more than fast enough to stream high-quality OGG files, even with a weak signal, Spotify may still drop the quality to Low, which has a bitrate of just 24 Kb/s. You will notice such a sharp drop in quality, even on a pair of bottom-of-the-barrel headphones.

To rectify this, open the Spotify app, tap your user image, open “Settings and privacy,” and tap the “Media Quality” menu. Once there, set Wi-Fi streaming quality and cellular streaming quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.”

I recommend setting cellular streaming quality to Very high and reserving Lossless for Wi-Fi, since lossless streaming is very data-intensive. One hour of streaming lossless files can take up to 1GB of data, as well as a good chunk of your phone’s storage, because Spotify caches files you’re frequently streaming. Besides, you’ll struggle to notice the difference unless you’re listening to music on a wired pair of high-end headphones or speakers; wireless connection just doesn’t have the bandwidth needed to convey the full fidelity of Spotify lossless audio.

You might opt for High quality if you have a capped data plan, but I recommend doing so only if you stream hours upon hours’ worth of music every single day over a cellular network. For instance, I burn through about 8 GB of data per month on average while streaming about two hours of very high-quality music over a cellular network each day.

Illustration of a headphone with various music icons around.


How Audio Compression Works and Why It Can Affect Your Music Quality

Feeling the squeeze when listening to your favorite song?

Set audio download quality to Very high or Lossless

If you tend to download songs and albums for offline listening, you should also set the audio download quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.” This setting is located just under the audio streaming quality section.

The audio download quality menu in Spotify's mobile app.

If you’ve got enough free storage on your phone, opt for the latter, but if you’d rather save storage space, set it to Very high. You’ll hardly hear the difference, but lossless files are about five times larger than the 320 Kb/s OGG files Spotify offers at its Very high quality setting, and they can quickly fill up your phone’s storage.

Adjust video streaming quality at your discretion

The last section of the Media quality menu is Video streaming quality. This sets the quality of video podcasts and music videos available for certain songs. Since I care about neither, I set it to “Very high” on Wi-Fi and “Normal” on cellular, but you should tweak the two options at your discretion because songs sound notably better at higher video streaming quality levels.

If you often watch videos over cellular and have unlimited data, feel free to toggle video quality to very high.

Make sure Data Saver mode is disabled

Even if your audio quality is set to Very high or Lossless, Spotify will switch to low-quality streaming if the app’s Data saver mode is enabled. This option is located in the Data saving and offline menu. Open the menu, then set it to “Always off,” or choose “Automatic” to have Spotify’s Data Saver mode kick in alongside your phone’s Data Saver mode.

You can also enable volume normalization and play around with the built-in equalizer

Spotify logo in the center of the screen with an equalizer in front. Credit: Lucas Gouveia / How-To Geek

Last but not least, there are two additional features you can play with to improve your listening experience. The first is volume normalization, which sets the same loudness for every track you’re listening to. This can be handy because different albums are mastered at different loudness levels, with newer music usually being louder.

Since I’m an album-oriented listener, I keep the option disabled. I can just play an album and set the audio volume accordingly, and I don’t really mind louder songs when listening to playlists, artists, or song radios.

But if you can’t stand one song being quiet and the next rattling the windows, visit the Playback menu, enable “Volume normalization,” and set it to “Quiet” or “Normal.” The “Loud” option can digitally compress files, and neither Spotify nor I recommend using it. This also happens with “Quiet” and “Normal,” since both adjust the decibel level of the master recording for each song, but the compression level is much lower and extremely hard to notice.

Before I end this, I should also mention that you can access the equalizer directly from the Spotify app, where you can fine-tune your music listening experience or pick one of the available equalizer presets. If your phone has a built-in equalizer, Spotify will open it; if it doesn’t, you can use Spotify’s. On my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S21 FE), I can only use One UI’s built-in equalizer.

To open the equalizer, open “Playback,” then hit the “Equalizer” button. Now you can equalize your audio to your heart’s content.


Adjusting just a few settings can have a drastic impact on your Spotify listening experience. If you aren’t satisfied with Spotify’s sound quality, make sure to adjust the audio before jumping ship. You should also check the sound quality settings from time to time, as Spotify can reset them during app updates.​​​​​​​

Three phones with a Spotify screen and the logo in the center.


These 8 Spotify Features Are My Favorite Hidden Gems

Look for these now.



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