The wild analog era of early PC storage


There was a time when saving a computer program sounded like a modem arguing with a fax machine. Before floppy drives were crunching and grinding away in our homes, the humble cassette was an affordable and effective way to sell, store, and record data.

When “storage” literally sounded like storage

One of the very first computers I ever encountered in my life was my uncle’s ZX Spectrum. I clearly remember watching him play video games, but mostly I remember how long it took to load up even a single simple game. He’d insert a game cassette, type in a “load” command and then press play.

In what seemed like an age later, the game would be ready to go, and he’d spend a few hours watching pixelated blobs bleep and bloop across the screen.

Data you could hear, rewind, and fast-forward

Retro 8 bit DIY home computer with cassette data recorder and monitor from TV set. Credit: Militarist / Shutterstock.com

These were just standard audio cassettes. If you pop it into a cassette deck, you should hear a hiss of rising and falling tones. A little like the noise and old-school modem makes. In the end, any medium that holds digital data simply needs to represent ones and zeros somehow. On a CD there are pits and lands, on a hard drive platter there are magnetic fields of varying strengths, and on an SSD there are memory cells that have trapped charges representing digital bits.

If you wrote a program in a language like BASIC and saved it to a tape, it felt pretty much the same as recording music from the radio or dubbing from another tape. Even better, if you were lucky enough, you could dub a tape and make a copy of it. Wait, wouldn’t that make piracy super easy? Yes! But, of course, software developers came up with all sorts of ways to prevent this, usually by creating elaborate codebooks that can’t be photocopied.

The thing is, although the data on the tape was digital, the medium was analog. It was a sound wave on a reel of tape. When things went wrong, the fix felt like sorting out issues with an analog audio system rather than a digital computer.

Maybe the volume wasn’t turned up enough, or your tape heads needed cleaning, or the tape itself has become stretched, and now the data are distorted. Cassette storage is mechanical, fragile, and very different in vibe to a floppy disk, much less a modern SSD with its trillions of microscopic transistors.

Magazines as software distribution platforms

I have fond memories of getting floppies or CDs with my computer or gaming magazines over the years. PlayStation demo discs, PC magazine discs with free software. It was awesome. But, in the early days of home computers, this wasn’t the only way to distribute software. Instead, a magazine could simply print the code for an application or video game on its own pages.

The Moon Iron Spectrum game in Your Sinclair magazine. Credit: Your Sinclair Magazine via The Internet Archive

The programs of the time were small enough to fit on a few pages of a magazine, especially if you made the print tiny and packed in lots of columns. I guess spending an hour or two painstakingly typing in computer code was a fun way to pass the time. When you were done, unless you felt like doing it all over again, you could save the code to a blank cassette.

Error correction was human-powered

Vintage Commodore 64 computer setup. Credit: Kittyfly/Shutterstock.com

One neat thing about the source code for a program being given away in the pages of a magazine was that you would learn something about programming even if you didn’t want to. I remember my dad buying me a book of BASIC games that I had to copy over to our IBM PC clone, and it soon occurred to me that I could just change the code to make the game behave differently, or to cheat.

Sometimes, if you make a mistake, debugging will teach you something as well, but in some cases even copying the code perfectly didn’t work. Yes, there were misprints and errors too, so a future issue might have a correction, or someone in the community (even yourself) would find the problem and simply fix it.

Early digital storage felt more “analog” than today

Thinking back to a time of which I personally only experienced the end days, it seems that the line between analog and digital wasn’t quite so clear as it is now. The computer was digital at its core, but everything about it, the controllers, the tape deck, and, of course, the CRT screen was analog.


Your software came as sound waves or as dots of ink on paper, and working with that data felt less like the future and more like being a sound engineer or copying someone else’s homework. At least you don’t have to manually type in the code for games today. Heck, even a (by today’s standards) “simple” game like DOOM has tens of thousands of lines of code. That’s a lot of magazines.



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Recent Reviews


Spotify aims to provide a consistent listening experience that uses minimal data. As a result, your audio quality might be less than ideal, especially if you’re using a pair of high-fidelity headphones or high-end speakers. Here’s how to fix that.

Switch audio streaming quality to Very High or Lossless

The default audio streaming quality in both the mobile and desktop Spotify apps is set to Automatic, which usually keeps the audio quality at Normal, which is only 96 Kbps. Even though Spotify uses the Ogg Vorbis codec, which is superior to MP3, OGG files exhibit slight (but noticeable) digital noise, poor bass detail, dull treble, and a narrow soundstage at 96 Kbps.

Even worse, Spotify is aggressive about adjusting the automatic bitrate. Even though 4G is more than fast enough to stream high-quality OGG files, even with a weak signal, Spotify may still drop the quality to Low, which has a bitrate of just 24 Kb/s. You will notice such a sharp drop in quality, even on a pair of bottom-of-the-barrel headphones.

To rectify this, open the Spotify app, tap your user image, open “Settings and privacy,” and tap the “Media Quality” menu. Once there, set Wi-Fi streaming quality and cellular streaming quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.”

I recommend setting cellular streaming quality to Very high and reserving Lossless for Wi-Fi, since lossless streaming is very data-intensive. One hour of streaming lossless files can take up to 1GB of data, as well as a good chunk of your phone’s storage, because Spotify caches files you’re frequently streaming. Besides, you’ll struggle to notice the difference unless you’re listening to music on a wired pair of high-end headphones or speakers; wireless connection just doesn’t have the bandwidth needed to convey the full fidelity of Spotify lossless audio.

You might opt for High quality if you have a capped data plan, but I recommend doing so only if you stream hours upon hours’ worth of music every single day over a cellular network. For instance, I burn through about 8 GB of data per month on average while streaming about two hours of very high-quality music over a cellular network each day.

Illustration of a headphone with various music icons around.


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Feeling the squeeze when listening to your favorite song?

Set audio download quality to Very high or Lossless

If you tend to download songs and albums for offline listening, you should also set the audio download quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.” This setting is located just under the audio streaming quality section.

The audio download quality menu in Spotify's mobile app.

If you’ve got enough free storage on your phone, opt for the latter, but if you’d rather save storage space, set it to Very high. You’ll hardly hear the difference, but lossless files are about five times larger than the 320 Kb/s OGG files Spotify offers at its Very high quality setting, and they can quickly fill up your phone’s storage.

Adjust video streaming quality at your discretion

The last section of the Media quality menu is Video streaming quality. This sets the quality of video podcasts and music videos available for certain songs. Since I care about neither, I set it to “Very high” on Wi-Fi and “Normal” on cellular, but you should tweak the two options at your discretion because songs sound notably better at higher video streaming quality levels.

If you often watch videos over cellular and have unlimited data, feel free to toggle video quality to very high.

Make sure Data Saver mode is disabled

Even if your audio quality is set to Very high or Lossless, Spotify will switch to low-quality streaming if the app’s Data saver mode is enabled. This option is located in the Data saving and offline menu. Open the menu, then set it to “Always off,” or choose “Automatic” to have Spotify’s Data Saver mode kick in alongside your phone’s Data Saver mode.

You can also enable volume normalization and play around with the built-in equalizer

Spotify logo in the center of the screen with an equalizer in front. Credit: Lucas Gouveia / How-To Geek

Last but not least, there are two additional features you can play with to improve your listening experience. The first is volume normalization, which sets the same loudness for every track you’re listening to. This can be handy because different albums are mastered at different loudness levels, with newer music usually being louder.

Since I’m an album-oriented listener, I keep the option disabled. I can just play an album and set the audio volume accordingly, and I don’t really mind louder songs when listening to playlists, artists, or song radios.

But if you can’t stand one song being quiet and the next rattling the windows, visit the Playback menu, enable “Volume normalization,” and set it to “Quiet” or “Normal.” The “Loud” option can digitally compress files, and neither Spotify nor I recommend using it. This also happens with “Quiet” and “Normal,” since both adjust the decibel level of the master recording for each song, but the compression level is much lower and extremely hard to notice.

Before I end this, I should also mention that you can access the equalizer directly from the Spotify app, where you can fine-tune your music listening experience or pick one of the available equalizer presets. If your phone has a built-in equalizer, Spotify will open it; if it doesn’t, you can use Spotify’s. On my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S21 FE), I can only use One UI’s built-in equalizer.

To open the equalizer, open “Playback,” then hit the “Equalizer” button. Now you can equalize your audio to your heart’s content.


Adjusting just a few settings can have a drastic impact on your Spotify listening experience. If you aren’t satisfied with Spotify’s sound quality, make sure to adjust the audio before jumping ship. You should also check the sound quality settings from time to time, as Spotify can reset them during app updates.​​​​​​​

Three phones with a Spotify screen and the logo in the center.


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