Stop using RAID cards for RAID—here’s what they’re actually good for


Are you still using your RAID card for RAID? It’s time to move to software-based RAID—but don’t throw that RAID card out yet, it still has a lot of use in your homelab.

Hardware RAID used to be the only reliable RAID method

Modern operating systems handle software-based RAID way better

A Seagate IronWolf 4TB hard drive label shown up close in front of the Ugreen iDX6011 Pro NAS. Credit: Patrick Campanale / How-To Geek

If we rewind time even by just 15 years, you’d see that hardware RAID controllers were all the rage. Back in the early to mid 2000s, barely anybody used software RAID, and it wasn’t until around 2015 is when software RAID began to fully take over.

Hardware RAID requires specific hardware RAID controllers. Think of these RAID controllers like a graphics card. A processor could handle all of the storage (or graphics) processing on itself, but it’s better to let a dedicated device handle it.

A RAID card would actually build the RAID itself and then present the operating system with one big logical drive. When the operating system went to write a file, it simply told the RAID controller and the controller handled where that file ended up.

Now, this was fine for many environments, but hardware RAID did come with a lot of drawbacks. Because the operating system didn’t ever see what was actually going on with the drives, and the RAID card handled it all, if your RAID card failed, then your data was effectively gone with it.

Sometimes, getting an identical card from the same manufacturer would let you recover the data, but it wasn’t a guarantee. It also wasn’t really all that simple for new features to be added to your RAID card as that required low-level firmware updates.

RAID cards were a product of their time, but definitely weren’t the best solution overall. These days, software RAID is where everything happens. Operating systems and hardware have come a long way since hardware RAID was king, and it’s now easier then ever to handle your server’s storage without a dedicated card—but RAID cards do still have a use, even when not handling RAID writes anymore.

A RAID card still lets you hook up lots of drives

It’s the best way to build a homemade NAS

One of the best features of a RAID card is the fact that it can take a PCIe slot and turn it into a bunch of hard drives. For example, my Lenovo RD440 server has one RAID card that handles hooking up 12 drives. That’s pretty impressive, since most motherboards come with just four or six SATA ports these days.

When I was helping a friend build a DIY NAS, I directed them to pick up a used RAID card off eBay. They’re cheap now, as a lot of servers were decommissioned with them installed. Cards like the LSI 9305-16i, which can handle up to 16 individual drives connected to it.

Basically, if you’re wanting to build out a NAS with your own components, a retired RAID card is the best option because they’re cheap (less than $50 most of the time) and make it so you can hook up a lot of drives with ease.

A word of caution before using a RAID card for your NAS

You really should flash it into HBA/IT mode first

An Unraid array of a mixture of hard drive sizes.

There’s one catch to using an old RAID card in a modern NAS with software RAID—the card has to be in HBA or IT mode first. As I mentioned at the start of the article, a RAID card presents one logical volume to the operating system. This means that the OS can’t handle RAID, as it sees just one drive.

To have a RAID card pass the individual drives through to the operating system, it needs to effectively be disabled and put into a mode that just lets it pass the dives straight through. This is typically called a HBA (host bus adapter) or IT mode.

It’s possible to flash cards yourself—I’ve done it—but many online sellers have this already done for you so you don’t have to worry about it. I would always make sure that whatever RAID card you’re getting either already is in HBA/IT mode, or can be put into HBA/IT mode.

I’ve seen a handful of cards that don’t support HBA/IT mode at all, meaning they’d be useless for a software RAID setup like Unraid or TrueNAS, so it’s always worth double checking before purchasing.


Software RAID opens up a world of possibilities, especially when used with a RAID card

My Lenovo RD440 runs Unraid and is able to easily handle the 12 drive bays that it has on the front. I’ve also run a Dell R720xd with 12 front-mounted 3.5-inch drive bays and two rear-mounted 2.5-inch bays, also using a RAID card in HBA/IT mode.

Whether you choose to use Unraid, TrueNAS, or another operating system entirely, being able to pass through all of the drives individually to the host OS is crucial these days inside of a homelab, making RAID cards more useful now then ever.



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Recent Reviews


Spotify aims to provide a consistent listening experience that uses minimal data. As a result, your audio quality might be less than ideal, especially if you’re using a pair of high-fidelity headphones or high-end speakers. Here’s how to fix that.

Switch audio streaming quality to Very High or Lossless

The default audio streaming quality in both the mobile and desktop Spotify apps is set to Automatic, which usually keeps the audio quality at Normal, which is only 96 Kbps. Even though Spotify uses the Ogg Vorbis codec, which is superior to MP3, OGG files exhibit slight (but noticeable) digital noise, poor bass detail, dull treble, and a narrow soundstage at 96 Kbps.

Even worse, Spotify is aggressive about adjusting the automatic bitrate. Even though 4G is more than fast enough to stream high-quality OGG files, even with a weak signal, Spotify may still drop the quality to Low, which has a bitrate of just 24 Kb/s. You will notice such a sharp drop in quality, even on a pair of bottom-of-the-barrel headphones.

To rectify this, open the Spotify app, tap your user image, open “Settings and privacy,” and tap the “Media Quality” menu. Once there, set Wi-Fi streaming quality and cellular streaming quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.”

I recommend setting cellular streaming quality to Very high and reserving Lossless for Wi-Fi, since lossless streaming is very data-intensive. One hour of streaming lossless files can take up to 1GB of data, as well as a good chunk of your phone’s storage, because Spotify caches files you’re frequently streaming. Besides, you’ll struggle to notice the difference unless you’re listening to music on a wired pair of high-end headphones or speakers; wireless connection just doesn’t have the bandwidth needed to convey the full fidelity of Spotify lossless audio.

You might opt for High quality if you have a capped data plan, but I recommend doing so only if you stream hours upon hours’ worth of music every single day over a cellular network. For instance, I burn through about 8 GB of data per month on average while streaming about two hours of very high-quality music over a cellular network each day.

Illustration of a headphone with various music icons around.


How Audio Compression Works and Why It Can Affect Your Music Quality

Feeling the squeeze when listening to your favorite song?

Set audio download quality to Very high or Lossless

If you tend to download songs and albums for offline listening, you should also set the audio download quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.” This setting is located just under the audio streaming quality section.

The audio download quality menu in Spotify's mobile app.

If you’ve got enough free storage on your phone, opt for the latter, but if you’d rather save storage space, set it to Very high. You’ll hardly hear the difference, but lossless files are about five times larger than the 320 Kb/s OGG files Spotify offers at its Very high quality setting, and they can quickly fill up your phone’s storage.

Adjust video streaming quality at your discretion

The last section of the Media quality menu is Video streaming quality. This sets the quality of video podcasts and music videos available for certain songs. Since I care about neither, I set it to “Very high” on Wi-Fi and “Normal” on cellular, but you should tweak the two options at your discretion because songs sound notably better at higher video streaming quality levels.

If you often watch videos over cellular and have unlimited data, feel free to toggle video quality to very high.

Make sure Data Saver mode is disabled

Even if your audio quality is set to Very high or Lossless, Spotify will switch to low-quality streaming if the app’s Data saver mode is enabled. This option is located in the Data saving and offline menu. Open the menu, then set it to “Always off,” or choose “Automatic” to have Spotify’s Data Saver mode kick in alongside your phone’s Data Saver mode.

You can also enable volume normalization and play around with the built-in equalizer

Spotify logo in the center of the screen with an equalizer in front. Credit: Lucas Gouveia / How-To Geek

Last but not least, there are two additional features you can play with to improve your listening experience. The first is volume normalization, which sets the same loudness for every track you’re listening to. This can be handy because different albums are mastered at different loudness levels, with newer music usually being louder.

Since I’m an album-oriented listener, I keep the option disabled. I can just play an album and set the audio volume accordingly, and I don’t really mind louder songs when listening to playlists, artists, or song radios.

But if you can’t stand one song being quiet and the next rattling the windows, visit the Playback menu, enable “Volume normalization,” and set it to “Quiet” or “Normal.” The “Loud” option can digitally compress files, and neither Spotify nor I recommend using it. This also happens with “Quiet” and “Normal,” since both adjust the decibel level of the master recording for each song, but the compression level is much lower and extremely hard to notice.

Before I end this, I should also mention that you can access the equalizer directly from the Spotify app, where you can fine-tune your music listening experience or pick one of the available equalizer presets. If your phone has a built-in equalizer, Spotify will open it; if it doesn’t, you can use Spotify’s. On my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S21 FE), I can only use One UI’s built-in equalizer.

To open the equalizer, open “Playback,” then hit the “Equalizer” button. Now you can equalize your audio to your heart’s content.


Adjusting just a few settings can have a drastic impact on your Spotify listening experience. If you aren’t satisfied with Spotify’s sound quality, make sure to adjust the audio before jumping ship. You should also check the sound quality settings from time to time, as Spotify can reset them during app updates.​​​​​​​

Three phones with a Spotify screen and the logo in the center.


These 8 Spotify Features Are My Favorite Hidden Gems

Look for these now.



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