I built my own Wi-Fi router with a Raspberry Pi for Starlink and solar control – here’s how


I needed a wireless router that I could connect to Starlink or tether to a handset. So I built one.

I needed a wireless router that I could connect to Starlink or tether to a handset. So I built one.

Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET

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ZDNET’s key takeaways

  • Why buy a wireless router when you can build one?
  • This is a great way to highlight the power and versatility of the Raspberry Pi.
  • It’s quite a cheap solution, but there are cheaper mobile options.

I needed a Wi-Fi router. I’m in the UK, so I’m not caught up in all that US FCC Wi-Fi router ban nonsense, but I needed a specific kind of router, one that I could use off-grid and act as a hub for my Starlink, control my solar power station, and such.

It needed to be small, draw a low amount of energy, and be customizable to my heart’s content.

Also: This is the power backup setup I trust after years of testing – solar panels included

So I decided to build one. Not from scratch, mind you (I didn’t feel like mining the ore to make the chips), but starting with one of my favorite bits of kit: the Raspberry Pi.

How to build your own Wi-Fi router

I know that Raspberry Pi boards aren’t as cheap as they once were, but you can still pick up a 2GB Raspberry Pi 5 for $65 (or take a look over on eBay; you can sometimes pick up a used one or new old stock for less than the standard retail price). 

Also: I setup a $4 router reboot timer, and it’s made my internet reliably faster

Or you might have one somewhere you can repurpose — the one I’m using here was used for an AI project a while ago, and it’ll no doubt get repurposed at some point down the line to do something else.

You get a lot of flexibility from using your own router, from the ability to install ad-blocking to securing your connection with a VPN, features that you might not find on the more basic routers (or many pricey ones).

What do you need?

  • A Raspberry Pi: Mine is a Pi 5, but I’ve had decent success with earlier versions. However, I like the Pi 5 because it’s got a lot of horsepower, better Wi-Fi, and a physical on/off button.
  • A microSD card: Nothing special is needed here; pretty much anything will do (all I had handy was a 2TB Lexar Silver Plus card). You’ll also need a way to connect the card to your Windows or Mac system to image it before putting it into the Raspberry Pi.
  • A custom operating system: I have a choice here between OpenWRT and RaspAP. I like both and have used both extensively, but here I’ve gone for RaspAP because beginners find it easier.

Also: Don’t rely on your router’s USB port when these alternatives are less prone to security risks

I also have a heatsink and cooler on mine, because acting as a router 24/7 can put a fair demand on the board, and a cooling fan helps keep it running smoothly. You can also make your project look smart and help keep it running cool with a case that helps dissipate heat.

My Raspberry Pi was repurposed from an old AI project.

My Raspberry Pi was repurposed from an old AI project.

Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET

1. Flash the microSD card

The first step is to put RaspAP onto a microSD card for your Raspberry Pi so it can boot up. 

The process is called imaging the card, and to make this easy, we can use the official Raspberry Pi Imager tool that is available for Windows and Mac. You can even download and image RaspAP directly using this; just navigate to the “Other specific-purpose OS” category.

Use a card reader to connect the microSD card to your computer, download the imager, and let it guide you through the process (you can skip all the customizations that are offered to you).

Imaging the microSD card with RaspAP.

Imaging the microSD card with RaspAP.

Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET

Once you’ve imaged the microSD card, remove it from the computer, pop it into the Raspberry Pi, boot it up, and then wait a few minutes for it to start up.

Now you’re ready to connect to your Raspberry Pi. After installing RaspAP, the easiest way to access your Raspberry Pi is by connecting to its default Wi-Fi hotspot, RaspAP (yes, it’s back to your computer again to do this, or you can use any device with a browser), with the password ChangeMe.

Also: I switched to a Wi-Fi 7 mesh router at home, and the faster download speed is so worth it

After you connect, fire up your favorite web browser and go to http://10.3.141.1 to access the RaspAP dashboard. You’ll need the username admin and password secret to do this.

Since all these passwords are the same for everyone, it is highly recommended that you change these default credentials after initial setup by clicking on the admin icon on the right and changing the password.

2. Options, options, options

Now I’ve got lots of options.

RaspAP is an incredibly powerful tool.

RaspAP is an incredibly powerful tool.

Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET

I can connect the Raspberry Pi to my Starlink and have it act as a very capable Wi-Fi router with tons of functionality. I can set it up as a bridge to connect to an existing Wi-Fi network. 

I can even tether a cellphone using USB to my makeshift router and transform it into a full-on mobile hotspot (this can be where the support documentation comes in handy).

Also: My home’s Wi-Fi dead zones were worse than I thought – here’s what fixed them

This will keep you busy for quite some time.

Lots and lots to explore in RaspAP.

Lots and lots to explore in RaspAP.

Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET

3. Upgrades

But what if you want more?

One thing that you might feel holds you back is Wi-Fi range. The Raspberry Pi 5 isn’t bad at all when it comes to Wi-Fi, but for around $60, you can get much better range and reliability. 

What you need is a PCIe to M.2 Wi-Fi module adapter expansion board ($23) and an Intel BE200 Wi-Fi 7 network adapter card ($38) to make your Wi-Fi a lot better. I used a few of these adapters in a project about six months ago to blanket a patch of woodland with Wi-Fi, and that worked amazingly well.

Also: Traditional Wi-Fi router vs. mesh: How to decide between the 2 popular networking options

You can also lose your dependency on a mains outlet to power your setup. A decent power bank and a 10W solar panel (the type used to charge up battery-powered cameras) will give you a decent amount of daily runtime, although the exact runtime will vary depending on factors such as workload and how much sun the spot gets. You can also get solar panels with power banks built into them.

You have lots of options.

Inspiration, and a cheaper off-the-shelf option

If you need inspiration — or some information to turn those dreams into reality — a while ago, I came across a fantastic GitHub repository of RaspAP projects and tutorials. Want to build an autonomous weather station or a construction cam? This has you covered.

Also: A $30 router with a built-in VPN? I had to try it – and haven’t had any regrets

Don’t want to bother with all this? You can get yourself a pretty decent, self-contained travel router that’ll do all this. You don’t get the fun of making it, and there will be hardware and software limitations that you won’t be able to smart your way out of (like upgrading the Wi-Fi hardware), but it’s a bit of kit that you will be able to use out of the box. Take the GL.iNet Mango mini smart router, which is only $30.





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Modern displays are amazing when it comes to detail, brightness, color, and all the ingredients that make for an impressive picture—except motion clarity.

CRT screens are still the king of motion clarity, but plasma flat-panel screens hold a respectable second place, and in many ways I still miss my old 720p 51-inch plasma TV and the crisp motion I gave up by switching to a 4K LCD.

Plasma solved motion the “right” way

Plasma displays didn’t just show an image—they flashed it.

While they operate on different principles, CRTs and plasma TVs have a few things in common. First, the phosphors used by CRTs and plasma displays are the same. Second, because these phosphors fade quickly, they need to be continuously refreshed.

In a CRT, the electron beam scanning from the top to the bottom of the screen achieves this, and in a plasma, a high-speed electric pulse does the same. Because of this rapid pulse-and-fade, these screen technologies have crisp perceptual motion, since our brains tend to interpret moving images that don’t pulse as “smearing” across our retinas.

The pulsing nature of plasma technology isn’t the only reason for its better motion reproduction. These screens also have very low latency and very fast pixel response times. Combined, it’s not quite as good as CRT motion handling, but it’s significantly better than LCD and OLED technology, even today.

Modern TVs rely on sample-and-hold—and that’s the problem

Stand and deliver blurry images

Blur Busters UFO Test

Modern LCD and OLED televisions are “sample and hold” technologies. They can hold each frame of video perfectly for the entire duration of that frame without deviating in brightness and then instantly snap to the next frame without any dipping to black in-between.

On paper, this sounds like a good thing, but your eyes don’t stay still when tracking motion. As they follow a moving object, the image being held on screen effectively drags across your retina, creating the perception of blur. Even if the panel itself is perfectly sharp.

You might not even realize how blurry motion is on modern displays if all you’ve ever seen with the naked eye is an LCD or plasma. However, if you see a CRT or plasma in person, the difference is quite striking.

The sample and hold issue means that no matter how much you increase the refresh rate, that type of blur persists. It’s why my 85Hz CRT monitor is clearly less blurry in motion than my 240Hz LCD monitor. It’s especially apparent when you’re playing 2D games that scroll the entire screen, with LCDs or OLEDs smearing the image in a way that gives me a bit of a headache if I’m being honest.

Playing Diablo 2 on a CRT. Credit: Sydney Louw Butler/Shutterstock.com

It creates this weird situation where a modern TV can be incredibly sharp in a freeze frame but somehow look softer than a lower-resolution display that isn’t sample and hold as soon as you press play.

Motion interpolation is a workaround, not a solution

It’s an abomination, that’s what it is

One of the “fixes” that TV makers came up with to reduce unwanted motion blur is a technology known as frame interpolation, or more commonly “motion smoothing.” Here an algorithm creates fake frames that guess at what the middle step of motion would look like if it were captured. This creates a high frame-rate video output, which we see as smoother and more crisp.

While this doesn’t take away sample-and-hold blur, it does improve motion clarity. Unfortunately, it also destroys the intended frame rate that shows and movies were meant to be seen at. It’s also useless for video games, because it introduces an enormous amount of input lag. NVIDIA’s DLSS technology is also frame interpolation, but it works for games because of several mitigations NVIDIA put into the technology. These measures don’t exist on TVs.

While some people think motion smoothing isn’t all bad, TV makers are no longer activating it by default as much anymore, and my advice is to always turn it off because the trade-offs are just not worth it.

Screenshot 2025-07-01 at 9.21.03 AM

7/10

Brand

TCL

Display Size

85-inches

The 2025 model TCL QM6K Google TV delivers a stunningly clear and bright picture with a new Mini-LED panel, improved local dimming zones, Dolby Vision IQ, and a neat new Halo Control system for improved visuals. Get this TV and elevate your living room. 


Black frame insertion tries to recreate plasma—but comes with trade-offs

Who turned out the lights?

The other trick sample-and-hold screens have to mimic what CRTs and plasma TVs do naturally is called BFI, or Black Frame Insertion. As the name suggests, the display inserts a full black frame between every original frame. This provides an instant and dramatic increase in motion clarity. However, it also has a big impact on brightness. As much as half of the light is now gone, so the image is much dimmer. Pushing overall brightness to compensate makes things hotter and more energy-hungry.

Some BFI implementations cause visible flicker, for which I personally have no tolerance at all, but the biggest problem here is that BFI doesn’t have the smooth pulsing roll off of the phosphors used in CRTs and plasma.


The future might circle back—but we’re not there yet

That might be changing, however, because a new generation of LCDs can leverage the power of multi-zone backlight technology to strobe the backlight across the screen in a way that mimics a CRT scanline.

NVIDIA’s G-SYNC Pulsar has received rave reviews from the biggest motion blur haters, and I sincerely hope that a similar technology becomes standard in TVs going ahead, so we can go back to enjoying the crisp motion we used to have without all the compromises.



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