This open-source photo editor convinced me to finally cancel Adobe Lightroom


Adobe Lightroom feels like the boss of digital photography workflows, and it is well-earned. However, over time, the company has made questionable decisions. The shift to a mandatory subscription, combined with it needing more powerful computers and you feeling increasingly locked into its file management, has made it less appealing. Luckily, Darktable, a powerful, open-source raw editor, has also grown over time. This app gives you a budget-friendly way to leave the Adobe world. It gives you the technical control over your photos and true ownership of your files that Lightroom’s cloud-focused approach has increasingly pushed aside, and it totally convinced me to finally cancel my Adobe subscription for good.

Adobe is an industry standard, and it leverages that position

It’s like the company holds its apps hostage

Adobe Lightroom really became a go-to for digital photography. It was made just for photographers, and it changed everything by putting image organizing, file managing, and editing all into one smooth app. You probably love Lightroom because its interface is so easy to use. You can tweak things like tone curves or local masks, and you know your original photos won’t change at all, because the edits are just saved as instructions.

When Adobe brought in the Creative Cloud, it gave photographers some great benefits. With easy cloud syncing across all your devices, you could shoot a raw photo on your phone, start picking and sorting on a tablet, and then effortlessly finish your serious retouching on a desktop computer, with every change updating on its own. However, with a required subscription instead of a standalone purchase, you’re stuck paying a monthly fee forever just to work on your own digital negatives.

The most annoying part about this model is what happens if you stop subscribing. You won’t be able to get into Lightroom’s important Develop module. While you can still see and export your pictures you’ve already organized, you completely lose the ability to edit new photos or change old edits. This basically holds your creative freedom hostage to always paying.

Lightroom has become famous for using a lot of computer resources. It usually struggles to perform well on older or even average hardware. Its processing engine needs a huge amount of computing power and memory. If you’re working on an older computer, the software often feels slow and doesn’t respond well. This constant need for better hardware adds an extra cost to using Lightroom, pushing away people who can’t afford to always buy new computer parts.

Darktable is the power without the paywall

Adobe charges a lot when Darktable gives itself away for free

darktable running on macOS. Credit: Tim Brookes / How-To Geek

Darktable is a sophisticated, open-source raw developer that is a free alternative to the pricey subscription Adobe asks for. It is a professional-grade environment that matches Lightroom’s technical capabilities. Making the transition to Darktable means stepping away from a software ecosystem that locks your tools behind a monthly paywall and moving toward a zero-dollar entry point that doesn’t feel like a compromise.

Your ability to access and edit your own photographic history is never held hostage by a lapsed subscription. It’s also great because it operates on a strictly non-destructive workflow, and preserves your original raw files as untouched while you experiment freely. It operates using 4×32-bit floating-point pixel buffers, keeping a level of processing accuracy that prevents banding and color breaks.

Instead of relying on Lightroom’s streamlined, top-down approach of static adjustment sliders, Darktable uses a highly customizable, modular architecture known as the pixelpipe. This system treats operations as individual, stackable modules that can be moved or instantiated multiple times. Most impressively, unlike Lightroom’s reliance on specific local adjustment brushes, almost every single tool within Darktable’s modular system allows for advanced masking and sophisticated blending options directly integrated into the module itself.

While Darktable does lack the one-click simplicity, it trades that automated convenience for much better flexibility in color science and tonal recovery. It also doesn’t have the annoying AI that Adobe is trying to force on its users.

Darktable uses a scene-referred workflow, which preserves the linear physical properties of the light captured by your sensor for as long as possible before compressing it for your display. This is great when paired with its specialized modules like the tone equalizer and filmic RGB, so you have precise control over shadows and highlights recovery.

Basically, you have to manually craft your look rather than relying on Adobe’s algorithms to do the heavy lifting. This means there’s undeniably a steeper learning curve. Still, this keeps you in charge of your aesthetic, which is better than relying on AI or Adobe’s algorithms.

Darktable isn’t as easy to pick up as Lightroom

Mastering the Steep Learning Curve

Darktable on Ubuntu Studio.

To really get comfortable with Darktable, you need to first let go of thinking it’s just like Adobe Lightroom. Going in with a typical photo editing mindset will make you get frustrated, because its core idea and how it processes things are completely different, and it deliberately gives you full control over your image data.

Getting good at it means you have to learn a new way of doing things. For example, the view mode is like your digital lightbox and library. It’s where you organize your files, rate them, add tags, and pick out your raw photos. While the Lighttable helps a lot with managing your digital assets, you move your photos into the Darkroom view, which is the main editing area where raw data actually becomes a finished image.

You should get familiar with Darktable’s modern scene-referred workflow by playing around with it. This is very different from traditional photo editors. Instead of forcing raw data into a non-linear format that’s ready for display right at the beginning of your edit, the scene-referred pipeline works in an unbounded linear space that mathematically imitates how light physically emits in the scene.

The Adobe logo surrounded by fire and backed by the ghostly impression of several Adobe apps.


I Ditched My Adobe Subscription for These Apps and I’m Not Looking Back

Goodbye Lightroom, Illustrator, and Photoshop.

Unlike the typical localized adjustment brushes you find in many other editors, Darktable has a sophisticated mix of drawn and parametric masks that you can use to control the opacity and effect of practically every single processing module in the pipeline. Drawn masks let you manually isolate areas using vector-based shapes like paths, circles, ellipses, and gradients.

All that said, it’s a good idea to first play with the program before doing anything professional. Having full power feels much different than using an app that tends to hold your hand.


Try out Darktable if you’re tired of Adobe Lightroom

Darktable gives you a way out of Adobe’s expensive subscription with a fancy processing system that understands light as your eyes do, a flexible setup, and a non-destructive way of working. The app gives you incredibly detailed, professional control over your images, which is something Lightroom’s simpler tools often hide from you. The learning curve’s definitely steeper, but that investment really pays off. If you care about digital privacy, having local control of your own files, and freedom from endless subscription fees, it’s obvious what to pick.



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Recent Reviews


Smartphones have amazing cameras, but I’m not happy with any of them out of the box. I have to tweak a few things. If you have a Samsung Galaxy phone, these settings won’t magically transform your main camera into an entirely new piece of hardware, but it can put you in a position to capture the best photos your phone can muster.

Turn on the composition guide

Alignment is easier when you can see lines

Grid lines visible using the composition guide feature in the Galaxy Z Fold 6 camera app. Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

Much of what makes a good photo has little to do with how many megapixels your phone puts out. It’s all about the fundamentals, like how you compose a shot. One of the most important aspects is the placement of your subject.

Whether you’re taking a picture of a person, a pet, a product, or a plant, placement is everything. Is the photo actually centered? Or, if you’re trying to cultivate more visual interest, are you adhering to the rule of thirds (which is not to suggest that the rule of thirds is an end-all, be-all)? In either case, having an on-screen grid makes all the difference.

To turn on the grid, tap on the menu icon and select the settings cog. Then scroll down until you see Composition guide and tap the toggle to turn it on.

Going forward, whenever you open your camera, you will see a Tic Tac Toe-shaped grid on your screen. Now, instead of merely raising your phone and snapping the shot, take the time to make sure everything is aligned.

Take advantage of your camera’s max resolution

Having more pixels means you can capture more detail

I have a Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 6. The camera hardware on my book-style foldable phone is identical to that of the Galaxy S24 released in the same year, which hasn’t changed much for the Galaxy S25 or the Galaxy S26 released since. On each of these phones, however, the camera app isn’t taking advantage of the full 50MP that the main lens can produce. Instead, photos are binned down to 12MP. The same thing happens even if you have the 200MP camera found on the Galaxy S26 Ultra and the Galaxy Z Fold 7.

To take photos at the maximum resolution, open the camera app and look for the words “12M” written at either the top or side of your phone, depending on how you’re holding it. The numbers will appear right next to the indicator that toggles whether your flash is on or off. For me, tapping here changes the text from 12M to 50M.

Photo resolution toggle in the camera app of a Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 6. Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

But wait, we aren’t done yet. To save storage, your phone may revert back to 12MP once you’re done using the app. After all, 12MP is generally enough for most quick snaps and looks just fine on social media, along with other benefits that come from binning photos. But if you want to know that your photos will remain at a higher resolution when you open the camera app, return to camera settings like we did to enable the composition guide, then scroll down until you see Settings to keep. From there, select High picture resolutions.

Use volume keys to zoom in and out

Less reason to move your thumb away from the shutter button

Using volume keys to zoom in the camera app on a Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 6. Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

Our phones come with the camera icon saved as one of the favorites we see at the bottom of the homescreen. I immediately get rid of this icon. When I want to take a photo, I double-tap the power button instead.

Physical buttons come in handy once the app is open as well. By default, pressing the volume keys will snap a photo. Personally, I just tap the shutter button on the screen, since my thumb hovers there anyway. In that case, what’s something else the volume keys can do? I like for them to control zoom. I don’t zoom often enough to remember whether my gesture or swipe will zoom in or out, and I tend to overshoot the level of zoom I want. By assigning this to the volume keys, I get a more predictable and precise degree of control.

To zoom in and out with the volume keys, open the camera settings and select Shooting methods > Press Volume buttons to. From here, you can change “Take picture or record video” to “Zoom in or out.”

Adjust exposure

Brighten up a photo before you take it

Exposure setting in the camera app on a Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 6. Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

The most important aspect of a photo is how much light your lens is able to take in. If there’s too much light, your photo is washed out. If there isn’t enough light, then you don’t have a photo at all.

Exposure allows you to adjust how much light you expose to your phone’s image sensor. If you can see that a window in the background is so bright that none of the details are coming through, you can turn down the exposure. If a photo is so dark you can’t make out the subject, try turning the exposure up. Exposure isn’t a miracle worker—there’s no making up for the benefits of having proper lighting, but knowing how to adjust exposure can help you eke out a usable shot when you wouldn’t have otherwise.

To access exposure, tap the menu button, then tap the icon that looks like a plus and a minus symbol inside of a circle.

From this point, you can scroll up and down (or side to side, if holding the phone vertically) to increase or decrease exposure. If you really want to get creative, you can turn your photography up a notch by learning how to take long exposure shots on your Galaxy phone.


Help your camera succeed

Will changing these settings suddenly turn all of your photos into the perfect shot? No. No camera can do that, even if you spend thousands of dollars to buy it. But frankly, I take most of my photos for How-To Geek using my phone, and these settings help me get the job done.

Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 7 on a white background.

Brand

Samsung

RAM

12GB

Storage

256GB

Battery

4,400mAh

Operating System

One UI 8

Connectivity

5G, LTE, Wi-Fi 7, Bluetooth 5.4

Samsung’s thinnest and lightest Fold yet feels like a regular phone when closed and a powerful multitasking machine when open. With a brighter 8-inch display and on-device Galaxy AI, it’s ready for work, play, and everything in between.




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