Your 3D printer proudly advertises a maximum print speed, but that doesn’t necessarily mean you should actually use it. When print quality, durability, and printer longevity are your priorities, speed takes a backseat.

Here are some reasons to slow it down.

You probably need a high-flow nozzle to hit those speeds

It’s all about flow rate

Credit: 

Tim Brookes / How-To Geek

I use a mixture of Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer for my Bambu Lab P2S, and I’ve yet to find a reason to venture beyond the default print profiles (with a few tweaks to default values, of course). I generally prioritize quality over speed, since I don’t mind waiting for prints to complete. By switching between the different profiles—from 0.08 high quality to 0.24mm standard—you can watch the speed value presets change.

None of these values come anywhere close to the advertised 600 mm/s maximum speed that my printer is capable of. It’s only when I tell the slicer that I have a high flow nozzle that I get anywhere near 600mm/s on the “standard” lower quality print profiles.

If you haven’t upgraded your printer’s nozzle to a high-flow variety (and it didn’t come with one), then you probably can’t hit those speeds either. Exceeding your printer’s maximum flow rate means that you won’t be able to move melted filament through the hot end fast enough.

Print speed sacrifices print quality

Slower is better for detail and finish

If you’ve ever fiddled with slicer settings, you’ll probably be aware that better quality finishes take longer to complete. There are a few reasons for this, but a lot of it comes down to layer height. Thinner layer lines allow for more detailed objects, but smaller layer lines also restrict flow rate.

On top of this, a print head that moves quickly is less precise than one that moves slowly. Faster movement means more vibrations and momentum is carried into the print, which can result in layer lines that don’t quite match up on the model (resulting in what is known as “ghost outlines”).

Print surfaces will also look more uniform at slower speeds, which means that consistency demands slower prints. If you want to make use of additional techniques for improving the look of your print, like fuzzy skin and ironing, these will also add time to your print.

Faster prints can also be weaker

Take your time if strength is a priority

Credit: Tim Brookes / How-To Geek

Not all 3D printed objects need to be strong, but those that do will benefit from slower print speeds. Fast speeds can cause layer adhesion issues, where filament is under-extruded in some areas due to the print head moving faster than the rate of extrusion. This can introduce weak spots to your prints.

Generally speaking, slower print speeds can help ensure that filament is extruded evenly. Be aware of the flip side of this, where the previous layer cools rapidly and reaches ambient temperature before the print head has deposited another layer. You can also get weak spots when fresh soft filament is laid on top of hardened filament.

You can mitigate this problem by choosing a happy middle ground, or using an enclosed and heated chamber.

Faster extrusion may lead to more failed prints

More filament, more problems

Credit: 

Tim Brookes / How-To Geek

All hotends have a maximum flow rate, which defines the amount of melted filament that can pass through at any one time. The closer you get to this number, the less room there is for error. High extrusion rates are more likely to lead to extruder jams, which in turn will cause prints to fail and require a lengthy clean up or even a new nozzle.

Through normal use, filament can get stuck in your printer’s nozzle. You might not notice this at lower print speeds, but the more filament you try to move through the hotend, the greater the potential for issues. You can try performing a cold pull periodically to clear any trapped gunk out of your print head.

Faster print speeds also typically require higher temperatures, since the filament spends less time hanging around in the hotend before it is deposited. This can lead to heat creep, where heat from the hotend makes its way up the print head and causes the filament to soften before reaching the nozzle, causing blockages.

If you have a “bedslinger” open printer, you might also find that faster print speeds result in the print becoming dislodged from the bed since the bed will have to move a lot faster, shaking your print at the same time. This can cause your print to “spaghetti” out.

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  Build Volume

  180x180x180

  Printing Speed

  500mm/s

  The Bambu Lab A1 mini 3D printer is ready to go out of the box and can have you printing within 30 minutes. Offering full-auto calibration, this compact 3D printer features a 180mm build volume and is compatible with the AMS Lite for multi-color printing. It also features built-in vibration and flow-rate calibration, which are typically features only found on more premium printers.

  
  

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  Build Volume

  250 x 210 x 220 mm

  Printing Speed

  170mm/s

  The Prusa MK4S 3D Printer is one of the most well-known and well-loved 3D printers on the market. As one of the main companies behind the open source initiative of 3D printing, the Prusa MK4S still supports open-source software and firmware when other companies are building their own closed-source alternatives. As the 2025 iteration of the classic Prusa 3D printer, you’ll get all the modern amenities including fast and reliable printing, easy setup, and Prusa’s proven reliability.

  
  

If you’re desperate for a print to complete, consider reducing the infill density. This will make the print weaker, while consuming less filament, but less printing means less waiting around.

Alternatively, you can also save time by printing a small slice of a tight-fitting item before you commit to the whole print.