5 uncomfortable truths about your Zigbee smart home


I use a lot of Zigbee devices in my smart home. For my needs, Zigbee still offers the best combination of low cost and utility. The truth is that Zigbee isn’t perfect; it has plenty of frustrating issues.

A Bluetooth / USB / 2.4G switch on the back of a keyboard along with a USB and 2.4GHz dongle.


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Your Wi-Fi is killing your Zigbee network

Wi-Fi and Zigbee don’t play nicely

Most Zigbee smart home devices operate in the 2.4GHz band. Unfortunately, so does your Wi-Fi. If your Wi-Fi router is on a common default channel, it can directly overlap with the Zigbee channels that your devices are trying to use. The result is interference that can cause your Zigbee network to become less reliable.

The annoying thing is that this isn’t something you can see. You may assume that the poor reliability of your devices or the slow response to commands is just the way that Zigbee is, when a lot of your problems could simply be down to channel overlap.

If you suspect overlap between your Zigbee and Wi-Fi networks, you can try changing the Zigbee channel to see if this improves things. Channels 20 and 25 are common choices to reduce interference.

Lose a router, and things can fall apart

IKEA Inspelning energy monitoring smart plug. Credit: Tim Brookes / How-To Geek

One of the key benefits of Zigbee is that it uses a mesh network. Unlike a traditional Wi-Fi setup in which every device talks directly to the router, many mains-powered Zigbee devices can act as routers themselves and can pass information back and forth to the other devices on the network. This can help to provide a stable connection even to devices that are a long way from your Zigbee coordinator, as they can communicate through any other router devices on your network.

There is a significant downside to this, however. If one of your router devices goes down, the path that was previously being used to communicate with a distant device disappears, so an alternative path needs to be found, which may take some time, or the device may drop off the network completely.

It’s all too easy for routers to go missing from the network. Zigbee smart bulbs make useful routers as they’re often placed all around your home, but if you power them off at the switch, they drop off the network entirely. Plug-in routers can also be unplugged if someone wants to use the outlet to plug in the vacuum cleaner, for example. This then throws your network into disarray.

There’s a lot of maintenance

Batteries, batteries, batteries

A giant stack of AAA batteries. Credit: marketolog / Shutterstock.com

A major benefit of Zigbee is that it’s a low-power protocol. Unlike Wi-Fi, which uses more power, Zigbee devices can often be powered by batteries. This makes them far more versatile, as you don’t have to worry about placing them near power outlets.

The downside is that having a lot of battery-powered devices means having a lot of batteries. While many Zigbee devices can offer good battery life, the batteries won’t last forever. Eventually, you’re going to have to change them, and the more Zigbee devices you have, the more onerous this becomes.

The trouble is that since the devices are battery-powered, once the batteries die, so do the Zigbee devices. You may be completely unaware that your battery-powered Zigbee device is no longer doing its job. If it’s not a vital device, it’s not such a major issue, but for something like a water leak sensor, the device lying dead is far from ideal.

Pairing is a dark art

No two devices seem to pair the same way

The pairing button of an Aqara Cube controller. Credit: Adam Davidson / How-To Geek

This is something that really annoys me about my Zigbee devices. You would think that pairing them would be easy enough to do. Maybe there would be a button that you would hold down for a second to put the device into pairing mode, and the same trick would work for every single device.

Sadly, this is far from the truth. The reality is that pairing Zigbee devices can often be akin to witchcraft, requiring you to hold down a button while standing on one leg and facing magnetic north in order to enter pairing mode.

While you can usually find the information somewhere online, it’s still frustrating that it isn’t always obvious how to do something as necessary as pairing the device. Even when you do manage to pull it off, if your device drops off the network, you may be forced to go through the whole process again.

The industry seems to be moving away from Zigbee

Big brands are all in on Matter

An assortment of boxes for several IKEA Matter products. Credit: Bertel King / How-To Geek

This is one of the biggest issues with Zigbee right now. While there are still plenty of Zigbee devices available, some brands are starting to move away from Zigbee. Companies such as IKEA and Nanoleaf have begun transitioning new product lines from Zigbee to Matter. Matter is a smart home standard backed by big players such as Apple, Google, Samsung, and Amazon, so it’s no real surprise that smart home brands are pushing Matter more and more.

The trouble is that in its current form, Matter isn’t yet as mature as Zigbee, and there are still a lot of features that it can’t offer. For example, with Zigbee, you can directly bind a Zigbee switch to a Zigbee light bulb and have them work even if your smart home hub is down. While Matter has binding in its specification, current support for the feature remains limited.

Zigbee also offers a feature called Zigbee Green Power, which allows you to use devices that don’t contain any power source at all. For example, a switch can use the kinetic energy of clicking the button to generate just enough power to send out a Zigbee signal and turn on a light. This is something Matter can’t offer.


Zigbee has problems, but I can live with them

Zigbee isn’t perfect, but neither are the alternative options. Wi-Fi is far from an ideal option for smart home devices, Z-Wave devices tend to be more expensive, and Matter still isn’t ready for the big time. For now, despite its issues, I’ll be sticking with Zigbee.



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Recent Reviews


Spotify aims to provide a consistent listening experience that uses minimal data. As a result, your audio quality might be less than ideal, especially if you’re using a pair of high-fidelity headphones or high-end speakers. Here’s how to fix that.

Switch audio streaming quality to Very High or Lossless

The default audio streaming quality in both the mobile and desktop Spotify apps is set to Automatic, which usually keeps the audio quality at Normal, which is only 96 Kbps. Even though Spotify uses the Ogg Vorbis codec, which is superior to MP3, OGG files exhibit slight (but noticeable) digital noise, poor bass detail, dull treble, and a narrow soundstage at 96 Kbps.

Even worse, Spotify is aggressive about adjusting the automatic bitrate. Even though 4G is more than fast enough to stream high-quality OGG files, even with a weak signal, Spotify may still drop the quality to Low, which has a bitrate of just 24 Kb/s. You will notice such a sharp drop in quality, even on a pair of bottom-of-the-barrel headphones.

To rectify this, open the Spotify app, tap your user image, open “Settings and privacy,” and tap the “Media Quality” menu. Once there, set Wi-Fi streaming quality and cellular streaming quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.”

I recommend setting cellular streaming quality to Very high and reserving Lossless for Wi-Fi, since lossless streaming is very data-intensive. One hour of streaming lossless files can take up to 1GB of data, as well as a good chunk of your phone’s storage, because Spotify caches files you’re frequently streaming. Besides, you’ll struggle to notice the difference unless you’re listening to music on a wired pair of high-end headphones or speakers; wireless connection just doesn’t have the bandwidth needed to convey the full fidelity of Spotify lossless audio.

You might opt for High quality if you have a capped data plan, but I recommend doing so only if you stream hours upon hours’ worth of music every single day over a cellular network. For instance, I burn through about 8 GB of data per month on average while streaming about two hours of very high-quality music over a cellular network each day.

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Set audio download quality to Very high or Lossless

If you tend to download songs and albums for offline listening, you should also set the audio download quality to “Very high” or “Lossless.” This setting is located just under the audio streaming quality section.

The audio download quality menu in Spotify's mobile app.

If you’ve got enough free storage on your phone, opt for the latter, but if you’d rather save storage space, set it to Very high. You’ll hardly hear the difference, but lossless files are about five times larger than the 320 Kb/s OGG files Spotify offers at its Very high quality setting, and they can quickly fill up your phone’s storage.

Adjust video streaming quality at your discretion

The last section of the Media quality menu is Video streaming quality. This sets the quality of video podcasts and music videos available for certain songs. Since I care about neither, I set it to “Very high” on Wi-Fi and “Normal” on cellular, but you should tweak the two options at your discretion because songs sound notably better at higher video streaming quality levels.

If you often watch videos over cellular and have unlimited data, feel free to toggle video quality to very high.

Make sure Data Saver mode is disabled

Even if your audio quality is set to Very high or Lossless, Spotify will switch to low-quality streaming if the app’s Data saver mode is enabled. This option is located in the Data saving and offline menu. Open the menu, then set it to “Always off,” or choose “Automatic” to have Spotify’s Data Saver mode kick in alongside your phone’s Data Saver mode.

You can also enable volume normalization and play around with the built-in equalizer

Spotify logo in the center of the screen with an equalizer in front. Credit: Lucas Gouveia / How-To Geek

Last but not least, there are two additional features you can play with to improve your listening experience. The first is volume normalization, which sets the same loudness for every track you’re listening to. This can be handy because different albums are mastered at different loudness levels, with newer music usually being louder.

Since I’m an album-oriented listener, I keep the option disabled. I can just play an album and set the audio volume accordingly, and I don’t really mind louder songs when listening to playlists, artists, or song radios.

But if you can’t stand one song being quiet and the next rattling the windows, visit the Playback menu, enable “Volume normalization,” and set it to “Quiet” or “Normal.” The “Loud” option can digitally compress files, and neither Spotify nor I recommend using it. This also happens with “Quiet” and “Normal,” since both adjust the decibel level of the master recording for each song, but the compression level is much lower and extremely hard to notice.

Before I end this, I should also mention that you can access the equalizer directly from the Spotify app, where you can fine-tune your music listening experience or pick one of the available equalizer presets. If your phone has a built-in equalizer, Spotify will open it; if it doesn’t, you can use Spotify’s. On my phone (a Samsung Galaxy S21 FE), I can only use One UI’s built-in equalizer.

To open the equalizer, open “Playback,” then hit the “Equalizer” button. Now you can equalize your audio to your heart’s content.


Adjusting just a few settings can have a drastic impact on your Spotify listening experience. If you aren’t satisfied with Spotify’s sound quality, make sure to adjust the audio before jumping ship. You should also check the sound quality settings from time to time, as Spotify can reset them during app updates.​​​​​​​

Three phones with a Spotify screen and the logo in the center.


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